Focus Fun July Week 5


Wean OFF Lures

Or shift responsibility to your dog!

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lureWean Off LURES – Or shift responsibility to your dog!

Once your dog understands what you expect/command, extra help such as verbal reminders, leg pats and leash cues should no longer be use.  In addition, at this stage, and food should no longer be used as a lure.

In the final stages of training, treat incentives become a reward for correct responses.  As your dog becomes more proficient, the reward should be given to your dog on a random basis to reward only the best responses and best efforts.  If your dog chooses not to respond correctly, the reward should be withheld/consequence.

To ensure your dog will perform the exercises when a toy or food are NOT present and without any help, follow these simple guidelines:

  • Make sure your primary reward is your praise and that the toy and/or food are the secondary rewards. Praise can be used in the ring, but NOT toys nor food.
  • The reward your dog receives should match the amount of effort he puts forth!  More quantity less often.
  • Shift the responsibility of the skill to your dog.  This means no help from you, i.e., cues or extra commands. The first command is what counts!  Remember that there are no “do overs” in the ring.
  • Once your dog understands how to perform a skill or exercise, only reward his best efforts and use a consequence for lack of effort.
  • Avoid always advertising the fact you have food in your mouth or toys in your pocket!
  • As your dog becomes more proficient and you are preparing to show, the use of food and toys should become random and a SURPRISE!

Use of REWARDS

  • Deliver food to your dog in a variety of ways.  Sometimes spit or throw treats, and at other times feed him from one hand or the other.  Do not give your dog a treat after you correct him.  Instead, give him the opportunity to repeat an exercise correctly in order to receive his reward.
  • Placement of food/rewards can accentuate your training.  Example: reward your dog up and forward to increase your dog’s drive forward or reward from behind you to discourage forging.

Weaning off lures is not a difficult task, it just takes a bit of planning!

Questions? Ask DebbyQ

This Month’s Challenge is ALL about staying OUT of the Exercise BOX!

This week we want to look at our training and an exercise or skill of your choice.

When making a training plan, think of and list all the individual skills your dog needs to complete a particular exercise.  Take  that exercise and break it down into all the tiny pieces that make it up.

Your Challenge this week

  • Pick two (2) exercises or a more complex sequence.
  • List all skills needed for what you have chosen.
  • Note on that list which skills have been taught and perfected and proofed so you can sequence.
  • Put on your training plan, how many reps, what skills you will put together, and what reps you will be adding games with the games listed.
  • Reminder: the games you add will help you stay out of the BOX.
  • When training, add a trick into the sequence such as a spin or twirl.  This is a great way to test your dog and make sure he is “thinking” and not getting trapped into a box.
  • Go out and train and video to post.

Questions? Ask DebbyQ

Slow Hands teaches my dog that impatience makes the reward go away, as well as SELF-CONTROL.   This week introduce the Slow Hand while our dog is in a STAND position.

Your Task for July  Week 5

Slow Hand – Different Distance and Angles when in a standslow hand stand kardde july week 5

  • Grab your dog and ask him to Stand and move a few feet in front of your dog.
  • Start to slowly deliver a treat from in front of your dog.   Reminder to review BEFORE progressing.
  • Have your dog stand and leave 6 or more feet from your dog.
  • Choose an angle and distance and slowly walk toward as you move your treat hand to your dog.
  • Give verbal feedback to tell him if he is right or wrong.
  • Release your dog from the stand position after delivering a treat, and play or engage with your dog.  This is his time for a mental break.
  • Repeat the sequence leaving your dog and delivering a treat from a different distance and angle.
  • Occasionally release with a Jump to Hand to keep your dog in an “active” state.

Video Notes:  Karrde is making a guest appearance.   He is still learning a stand but this is a great opportunity to see him learning.  In this video we are adding more angles and stay work.  Toward the end of the video, he moved a few times and I withdrew the treat hand and tried again.   Karrde did give more effort after a few consequences, i.e. the treat hand flying away.   With time he will be a rockstar!

BEFORE PROGRESSING, REVIEW YOUR CHECK LIST.

Slow Hand – Stand Distance and Angles

Questions? Ask DebbyQ

TT with Visual cue only. I prefer using a signal only.  Hahaha.  In order for of my dog to see the cue, he MUST be looking and watching me.   :>)

Your Task for July  Week 5

    • Grab your dog.
    • While standing still, keep your hand low and present your thumb cue and whisper your command.  This starts the transition to signal only easier for your dog.
    • Continue to whisper until your dog becomes proficient at the TT with no verbal.
    • Next, present only your thumb.  Keep your TT low making it easier for your dog to succeed.
    • Only when your dog is proficient with the TT signal, should you raise your hand to a comfortable position.

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

  • Your dog seems confused when you are training this game.  Make sure you are presenting your signal hand, that is have your hand behind your back or at your side BEFORE presenting the cue.
  • Your dog will not touch as you are moving. Keep your motion very slow to start and build on success and reward history.   Keep your hand lower to start training only raising it when you dog is confident.
  • Your dog will not try to touch your thumb if there is no treat in your hand.  Take your time weaning off and varying when a treat is in your hand.  Make sure your hand is low enough for your dog to easily reach.
  • There is not effort while you are proofing and making the game more challenging.  Anytime you proof, always start easy with the distractions further from your dog.  Move the distractions a tad closer only after your dog has shown confidence.
  • Your dog is having a hard time transitioning to a cue only. Keep your hand low when beginning to wean off verbal command.  Over many repetitions, gradually wean off using your verbal touch command and make the cue just the “presentation” of your thumb.

VIDEO NOTES:  Poe was a wild child in this session.  LOL.  Way too much energy.   We started the session as a reminder in no motion and then we added motion on both the right and left sides.  I marked correct responses and rewarded.  Since this week is SIGNAL only, the time he wasn’t paying attention, I marked incorrect.  He quickly learned that focus pays!

BEFORE PROGRESSING, REVIEW YOUR CHECK LIST.

Transitions-Thumb Touch Visual Cue Only

Questions? Ask DebbyQ

DIG – Moving through an entry or past barriers. 

This week set up or use an entrance such as baby gates, through a gate or doorway or on a sidewalk between hedges. Use something DIFFERENT than you used last week.  Variety helps your dog generalize.    If you can walk into the ring with focus, you have a positive beginning to a great performance.

Your Task for July  Week 5

DIG – Moving and rewarding past entry or between barriers.   That is rewarding once you are through the barriers.

  • Start to walk/heel slowly towards the simulated ring opening.
  • Release and reward your dog as you get through the opening.
  • Keep your rewards hidden until you break into a fun game.
  • Repeat until your dog is confident.
  • The GOAL is to reward your dog as many times once you have entered or gone through the opening.
  • While training, mix up rewarding how you reward and randomly reward on the approach or between the opening.
  • This is a crucial part of your showing later.  Spend loads of time and don’t be in a rush to go “through” the opening.  It is your dog’s focus and attitude you are seeking.
  • As a last step, once you are through entry, occasionally practice your Leash O/O.

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

  • Your dog constantly drops his head as you are approaching or going through an entrance.  Work on upward releases BEFORE you get to the opening you are walking towards.  Make it fun to approach and rewarding to look at you when you are approaching something.
  • Your dog looks worried or concerned about going through an opening.  Use your Heeling Games to reward your dog BEFORE or AS you go through the opening.  Also, use many different types of openings so that your dog will generalize the behavior.
  • Your dog seems to HATE being in the ring!  He seems to shut down and cannot wait to leave.  The solution is to make the ring a great place to be.  Often, when I get a new puppy/dog, I take them to a Show N Go or Match.  We go into the ring and only play.  We play going into the ring as well playing games, etc. once in the ring.  What could be more fun for my dog?  The “environment” becomes so rewarding to them that my dogs LOVE to be in the ring.  :>)   If your dog does not play with toys, play the KrazyKookie Game in the ring instead.

Proofing against distractions is a lengthy process. Do not rush or take shortcuts.

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

  • Your dog constantly drops his head as you are approaching or going through an entrance.  Work on upward releases BEFORE you get to the opening you are walking towards.  Make it fun to approach and rewarding to look at you when you are approaching something.
  • Your dog looks worried or concerned about going through an opening.  Use your Heeling Games to reward your dog BEFORE or AS you go through the opening.  Also, use many different types of openings so that your dog will generalize the behavior.
  • Your dog seems to HATE being in the ring!  He seems to shut down and cannot wait to leave.  The solution is to make the ring a great place to be.  Often, when I get a new puppy/dog, I take them to a Show N Go or Match.  We go into the ring and only play.  We play going into the ring as well playing games, etc. once in the ring.  What could be more fun for my dog?  The “environment” becomes so rewarding to them that my dogs LOVE to be in the ring.  :>)   If your dog does not play with toys, play the KrazyKookie Game in the ring instead.
REMEMBER – It’s not about getting to the barrier it’s about building confidence and rewards so when your dog does come to a barrier, they are prepared and HAPPY.   It’s about the journey and not the destination.  

Video Notes: Poe is advancing in DIG work during this session. We started out with objects further apart and only after I saw that Poe was confident were the objects moved a tad closer. Starting where we ended the last session was done to build his confidence before increasing the difficulty. In addition, Poe was rewarded on the approach once and in-between once before we progressed. I was thrilled with Poe’s effort and he even caught treats in motion for the first time! SUCCESS!

BEFORE PROGRESSING, REVIEW YOUR CHECK LIST.

DIG – Moving Through and Past Barriers

Questions? Ask DebbyQ

Monthly Challenge – Staying out of the Training BOX  
This is an important concept to remember.  When training  add a wide verity of skills to keep your dog thinking, and randomly use games to keep your dog highly motivated.

Slow Hand from a sit, down, or Stand
Slow Hand is a wonderful way to teach self control and build on a solid stay in any position, sit, down, or stand. This skill may be added any time you have your dog on a stationary position. If the dog moves, he learns at the reward hand will fly away.

Transition Games – Thumb Touch
This month we added the Thumb Touch to our Transition game tool box. The TT was done while stationary first and then when moving. In addition, we weaned off treats in the TT hand as well as the verbal cue making the TT become a signal only. HaHa. My dog has to be focused to see the signal.

DIG= DISTRACTIONS INITIATE GAMES = Dog Ignores Distractions
I love DIG. It is a great way to teach a dog that a distraction = rewards/games. If training with patience, this drill can create a focus on your dog that can withstand any distraction BUT it takes time to teach and maintain.

Video Notes: This was a fun month for Poe and me. He learned all sorts of new games and I continue to see his desire build and his focus increase. There are few things we need to practice more to ensure Poe’s foundation is solid.

Questions? Ask DebbyQ