
Learned helplessness is a state that occurs when a dog has been repeatedly wrong and doesn’t know how to be correct, and has no idea how to “WIN”.
Links you will want.Focus Fun A-Z Welcome PageFocus Fun A-Z Weekly LinksFacebook Group LinkQuestions? Ask DebbyQ
|
Preventing shut down
(Or learned helplessness)!
How many times have you heard a trainer comment, “he just shuts down” or “he doesn’t like to work under this condition”?
What happens when a dog “shuts down”? Shutting down is when a dog has stopped trying to do what is being asked because he has learned he is never right and cannot win in the situation. Imagine if every time you raised your hand and tried to answer a question in class your teacher screams at you “NO YOU ARE WRONG.” No matter how many ways or times you tried to answer the question, you were told that you were wrong and never told what the correct answer was. How many times would this happen before you would no longer attempt to try to answer even a simple question?
The most telling characteristics of “shut down” in a dog are:
* A dog that is unresponsive to motivators and rewards. In other words, the dog will not play or interact with the trainer and rarely will eat treats.
* The dog’s posture is guarded and they may react slowly or not at all to commands and/or signals.
* The dog has checked out mentally i.e. “nothing at home” or “deer in the headlights” look.
* The dog might display stress signs such as lip licking or avoiding eye contact.
* Shut down is sometimes confused with “submission.”
It is important to note that a dog in a shutdown state is not necessarily exhibiting what is referred to as learned helplessness. However, for the purpose of this article, we are referring to learned helplessness.
What is Learned Helplessness in Dogs? Learned helplessness is a state that occurs when a dog has been repeatedly wrong and doesn’t know how to be correct, and has no idea how to win. The dog shuts down, and in some cases is almost paralyzed or unresponsive. The “hurt” might be unintentionally caused by the trainer through progressing too rapidly in training, lack of communication of the concepts or inappropriate proofing.
Why am I talking about shut down and learned helplessness? This is a huge training problem that, for the most part, can be avoided. Every time you unfairly correct or nag your dog, you risk creating this behavior. This includes “proofing” a dog incorrectly or before the dog is ready for the skill challenge.
Some dogs that have learned to shut down are permanently handicapped when learning new behaviors that require thought. The dog would rather not attempt to learn the new skill because of the fear of being incorrect. They view learning a new behavior is a bad thing, so they only offer what they consider is the “safe behavior” that is not trying or giving effort.
Here are the top errors that trainers make that teach their dog to give up or shut down!
Mistake #1: “Positive = permissive”. Today’s dog trainers are using more positive methods to teach skills and modify behaviors. While this is great, many trainers feel that all interactions with their dogs need to be purely positive. In other words, there is little to no consequence for the lack of effort or bad behavior. It is important for a dog to understand the difference between right and wrong.
Mistake #2: Dependency on luring. As straightforward as luring can be, it can also cause problems. In the beginning stages, some dogs become too focused on the lure to think about what they’re doing. Another potential problem with luring is that some dogs become dependent on the lure, i.e. they become the “show me the money” dogs. These dogs will not perform until they know there is something in it for them. This is easier to prevent than it is to fix, but it’s certainly not going to ruin a dog if it happens. Preventing lure-dependency is as simple as not letting the lure become a part of the pattern. Use your lure to help the dog get into position 3-5 times and then get it out of your hand. You’ve now switched from luring the dog (showing him what he could have ahead of time) to rewarding him (surprising him with something special after he does what you want.)
Mistake #3: Poor timing. Good timing is essential in dog training! Poor timing means you could be marking behaviors, right or wrong, inappropriately, or rewarding the wrong behavior or worse yet, confusing your dog. Incorrect timing sends the wrong message and prolongs your dog’s ability to properly learn the skill. The old saying “timing is everything” was written for dog trainers!
Mistake #4: Improper use of proofing. Proofing or testing your dog’s understanding of a skill under all circumstances, is extremely important if you want to have success when showing in any venue. Unfortunately, many trainers believe in an all or nothing approach to proofing. It is important for a dog’s confidence that he understands how to “win” in a proofing scenario.
Mistake #5: Lack of consistency. The key to all training is consistency. If you’re not consistent in your criteria, you are not going to get a good result. In addition, your dog will not know what to expect which will diminish his confidence. You want to make it as simple as possible for your dog to learn. The only way that will happen, is being a consistent trainer. Sit means sit the first time and every time you say it. Inconsistency will only confuse your dog.
Mistake #6: Stepping toward your dog as he is coming to you. This is a new addition to this list because I see the issue so often. The common place I see this is when a person is playing with their dog. I.e. they are tossing a toy for their dog, their dog retrieves the toy and starts running back to his owner, and the owner, being impatient, starts walking toward their dog. STOP and think for a minute. Why should your dog RUN all the way to you IF he knows you are going to come to him? Haha. My rule of thumb is, even in play, when my dog is heading toward me, if I must move, I take a step back or away from my dog. This one simple thing will prevent a lot of problems later.
“It’s not what we do once in a while that shapes our lives. It’s what we do consistently.” ― Anthony Robbins
Questions? Ask DebbyQ
The Kandu drill is a great way to increase your dog’s focus on knowledge of where you are located.
Goals – This week is to add in a down command and to further test your dog’s knowledge to the Kandu drill.
Please Remember:
- Use a low distraction area when introducing something new. In this case a down.
- Use a consequence such as a negative marker and or lightly pulling up on the leash, anything that you use when training.
- Repeat the down after a few more steps. Praise and reward for effort.
Your Task for May
Progression
- In a low distraction area, start to walk on a loose leash with your dog.
- While moving forward with your dog, give a down command. Praise your dog for downing quickly.
- If he does not, immediately step in toward him and abort the repetition. Use a consequence such as a negative marker and or anything that you use when training.
- Release your dog from the down and start to walk again with your dog.
- After a few steps, give the down command again. Praise and reward for effort.
- NOTE: I often do a few repetitions in a row. I.e., walk a few steps, down, walk a few steps, down, walk a few steps, down.
COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make
- Giving more than one command for an incorrect or no response. When working with your dog, it is OK to repeat the command as you are add a consequence. If your dog gives no effort to down, use a consequence.
- Waiting to see if your dog will respond to the command. In the long run, waiting for your dog to see if he will perform a down will teach your dog a “delay” in a command. In other words, if I ask my dog to down and wait 3 seconds to respond to compliance, then I am building in a 3 second delayed down. If you want your dog to respond quickly, YOU need to be ready to mark or abort an attempt that is less than your criteria.
BEFORE PROGRESSING, REVIEW YOUR CHECK LIST.
Questions? Ask DebbyQ
Using the RSG Games (Ready, Set, Go) in your training will enhance your dog’s focus, increase your dog’s “active” state when in a stationary position, and become a great tool to increase focus when proofing.
Goal – To continue to add new games and to teach, build focus and desire with your dog when he is in a stationary position or running toward you.
RSG Game Reminders
- Do NOT advertise that you are going to play a game or that your dog is going to get a treat or toy!
- INSIST your dog return to you FAST anytime you toss or drop a treat! This is a MUST!
- Make it FUN and rewarding to get back to you by playing tug or KK every time your dog comes to you.
- Work with your dog on your right side if you do a sport that requires your dog to line up on your right side.
- Add a consequence if your dog looks away from you or becomes “inactive” such as the U-Missed It Game.
Your Task for May Week 2
Game 10: Disappear around the corner
- Put your dog on a sit.
- Walk away from your dog a short distance and stop near something you can duck behind quickly.
- Call your dog and as he is coming towards you, disappear quickly around a corner, behind a pole, etc.
- When your dog gets to you, end with a game of tug or have him jump up to your hand for a treat. Make a big deal about him “catching” up to you.
- Dog doesn’t look for you? Simplify and take off later and when the dog is closer to you AND make it worth finding you with loads of games and rewards.
COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make
- Advertising that a game is getting ready to begin. Be fast and unpredictable when you are going to break into a game. Keep your dog guessing.
- Letting your dog see you load up with toy/treats. Load up or pre-place rewards before you get your dog out of the crate. Make it a surprise in stead of advertised.
- Walking away slowly. When you leave your dog, walk away “as if” you were in the ring. Brisk and with purpose.
Next, Karrde then Riker are training RSG Game 10. Here, Karrde is still learning the game as well as how to stay in position until he is released. We practice the Disappear Around the Corner and reinforced the stay too.
Riker knows this game, Disappear Around the Corner, which he loves. You can see how he stays in an active state the entire time I am walking away. Good Boy!
BEFORE PROGRESSING, REVIEW YOUR CHECK LIST.
Questions? Ask DebbyQ
Watch2Win – new location
Once your dog is present in focusing on you when you are not looking at him or while you are turning, it is time to increase the distractions and make it a little harder for your dog to remain focused and engaged.
Goal – To continue to grow the W2W game. It will not be long before your dog will be able to go to a new location and automatically focus for engagement. I.e. Focus will then be a HABIT!
Only move to this level, if your dog has been successful with the previous steps. The more reward history and success your dog has, the better!
Your Task for May Week 2
Reminders:
- Use VERY HIGH VALUE rewards and have a hungry dog.
- Increasing distractions. When visiting new locations, keep it easy by looking for an area where there are few people. New locations are often very distracting by themselves. While we want your dog to be challenged, we also want him to have a reasonable amount of success.
Adding New Location.
- Go to a new low distraction location.
- Play with your dog, then stop all interaction with him.
- When your dog re-engages and looks at you, back up or turn, keeping your face in your space, and periodically break eye contact. That is DO NOT look directly at your dog.
- Your dog is required to remain engaged and looking at you for a short time 10-30 seconds. If your dog continues to focus on you, reward your dog with a KrazyKookie Game or a brief tug session.
- NOTE: If your dog disengages with you at any time, turn away from your dog. Once your dog moves and looks at you, praise your dog, then again move slightly.
- Simplify on the next repetition by slightly decreasing the duration you are not looking at your dog.
- If your dog does not look back or attempt to engage with you at all, use a U-Missed It Game as a consequence.
- When you are finished training, end the session with your “that’s all” marker, praise and tell your dog that he is wonderful.
COMMON ERRORS – Handler Make
- The handler isn’t keeping their face in their space. Move your feet only and not your shoulders or head.
- Too much work and not enough play. When training, keep rewards plentiful and breaks often. Play breaks are an opportunity for your dog to relax and de-stress.
- When going to new locations your dog looks away. If your dog disengages with you at any time, turn away from your dog. Once your dog tries to engage and looks at you, praise your dog, then again slightly move. If your dog continues to focus on you, reward your dog with a KrazyKookie Game or a brief tug session.
- Your dog seems too distracted when going to a new location, he almost seems overwhelmed. Make sure you are not increasing the difficulty level too fast. When going to a new location start a bit further from distractions. Play and engage with your dog before starting to train.
- our dog disengages with you during your movement. Once your dog moves and looks at you, praise him lightly, then begin to move around again. Give your dog feedback and encouragement. If your dog continues to focus on you, reward him with a KrazyKookie Game or a brief tug session.
Karrde is first in the video. So far, Karrde and I have only practiced W2W in the building. We play as we go to the location that we will use to train. Once there, play stops, and focus work begins. It is obvious, that Karrde has a bit of trouble at first going over the walkway AND maintaining focus on me. When he gives effort, I give him praise and a reward. While playing, I use tugging to move him back and forth from the grass to the walkway, which helps him learn that walking over different surfaces is easy. During the session, I also give him feedback back using positive input. This will help build his confidence PLUS add some duration BEFORE rewarding him.
Riker is next. While moving to where we will train, Riker is already trying to make eye contact with me. You can see he was having a bit of an issue moving over the walkway and through the grass. I praise and reward his effort. As we progress, I add more difficulty and duration. Praise and play are his reward. NOTE: that at the very end of our session, Riker and I play and interact with no treats or toys. This is a great opportunity for him to learn training is FUN even if no rewards are present.
While practicing W2W, sometimes look at your dog and other times do not. Let him learn his job is to look at you regardless what you are doing. After all, you will need to look around to see when it is time to go into the ring, line-up for your first exercise, or to talk to the judge. Make his focus on you YOUR DOG’S responsibility.
BEFORE PROGRESSING, REVIEW YOUR CHECK LIST.
Questions? Ask DebbyQ
This week we are going to test Remain With Me in a new low distracting location and adding more steps while your dog is with you. Remember, this is when your dog comes to you, he is expected to remain in your “space” until he is told differently. This will help teach your dog he cannot leave you without permission.
Goal – To challenge your dog coming and going to a bed as well as staying with you a number of steps until given a command.
Your Task for May Week 2
Balance Remain With Me.
- Have your dog and bed in a NEW low distraction location.
- Stand with your dog close to the bed with treats and toys in your pockets, and NOT in your hands.
- Send your dog to his bed and toss a treat on the bed to reward your dog.
- Release your dog by giving your “come” command, praise and reward your dog when he gets to you.
- As your dog is on the bed OR coming toward you, back up a few steps. This is a great way to increase your distance from the bed.
- When your dog comes to you, stand still and wait. If your dog remains with you, praise him and move one (1) step away from your dog.
- If he remains with you and moves with you, praise, and give a few treats.
- Consequence – if your dog wanders off, mark the incorrect behavior, calmly go to your dog, take his collar, and move back to the area you were in. Let go of his collar, if he stays with you, praise your dog.
- Send your dog back to the bed and reward by tossing treats on the bed and get distance from the bed by backing up a few steps.
- Call your dog to you and praise when he gets to you.
- This time, take a few steps expecting your dog to stay with you and praise if he stays with you.
- Repeat the sequence a few times building distance from the bed as well as adding steps as your dog remains with you.
COMMON ERRORS – Handler Make
- Increasing your distance too quickly. It is better to stay close to the bed and practice perfection before challenging by adding distance.
- Not rewarding enough for your dog’s effort. The reward should be given anytime he is learning a new skill or sequence.
- Repeating the same sequence too frequently. Anytime you see your dog anticipating, check to see if you are doing the same sequence over and over. Keep your dog guessing by changing up what you do.
- Taking too many steps when the dog is with you. Only add a step or two while your dog is with you. Build on success and a reward history to teach your dog how to be correct.
BEFORE PROGRESSING, REVIEW YOUR CHECK LIST.
Questions? Ask DebbyQ