Focus Fun October Week 5

Do you want to Improve Your Training? Part 4

Part 4. Evaluate Training.
A common mistake some trainers make is forgetting to evaluate their training. As a result they continue to do the same thing over and over even if it isn’t working.

“Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.” Albert Einstein

There are a lot of things to evaluate after a training session.
For example:

• Did you make notes when training or immediately following? You would be surprised how much is forgotten in a short period of time. Notes help you plan for future sessions and keep you from falling into bad habits or routines.
• Did your training plan work? Did you plan too much or too little for your session? While we all want to train everything in one session, most of the time it is not practical and may often be too much for your dog. Organize your sessions so you have just enough time to accomplish what you have planned. Be aware of problems that prevent you from having the time to train what you have planned.
• Do you need to make changes to your future training plans? Did you reinforce and review foundations? Did you add enough or too much proofing? Did you think about going to a new location? When planning a session, make sure to include reviews of foundations as well as proofing skills.
• If the session did not go well–what happened? Where you able to fix the issue and if so how? If your dog never makes a mistake, he is not really learning. Problems are a part of the learning process and you need to be prepared to handle any situation. Be proactive in your planning. Think about what might go wrong and have training solutions ready before you take your dog out of his crate.
• How long was your session? Did you train too long? Was your dog tired or did he became unfocused? Always end your session with your dog wanting more. This will keep him looking forward to training instead of dreading it!
• Did you use transitions? Were they smooth? Did you use a variety of methods? If you plan training sessions well, any down time will be kept to a minimum. You will be able to set equipment, move efficiently from one skill to another and rehearse attentive behaviors throughout the session.
• Did you keep the session fun and motivating? What was your rate of reinforcement? Did you use a variety of reinforcements? Did you use a balance between food and toys? Variety is the spice of life! When training, take a number of different toys that your dog loves and a mixed bag of treats. Use some of high, medium, and low value treats for your dog. He will always be surprised when receiving reinforcements.
• Did you video tape your session? Recording sessions is a great way to assess how your training is progressing. It will help you see issues you were not aware of or missed during training and will sharpen your eye for seeing problems in future sessions.

There is a lot to consider when making a training plan. Take your time and consider your goals while planning and ALWAYS evaluate your training!

We hoped you enjoyed this series on ways to improve your training. Please feel free to contact us with questions!

Questions? Ask DebbyQ

Monthly Drill Progression

Instant On is one of my training SECRET drills and it is a valuable tool that teaches my dogs to go from feet up in the air a sleep to work on a second’s notice.

Your Task for this October Week 5

Introduction Instant ON

• First, make a plan of what skills you are going to do during the training sessions.
• Keep the skills easy, short, and fun for the first few times training this drill.
• Preplace any equipment needed such as jumps, signs, toys, or treats around the training area BEFORE taking your dog out of the car or crate.
• NOTE:  With a young or inexperienced dog, I will play with my dog using the KrazyKookie Game or a game of tug, to teach engagement immediately out of a crate.  Only when my dog plays immediately, do I start to teach the “training right out of the crate” concept.
• Get your dog out of the car/crate and immediately start training.
• Work your way to your training area with transitions and place your dog on a settle.  This is a relaxed, down with your dog on his hip.
• Once your dog relaxes, quickly ask your dog to do a skill.  This can be a trick, lining up next to you, etc.  Use something easy that your dog knows well.
• Reward effort!
• Work a number of settles into your training session, but do not overwork your dog.  This is a mentally intensiveness skill for your dog.
• Engage with your dog back to his crate.

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

• Expecting too much too quickly.  When working on this skill, keep sessions short and fun.
• Using the skills the dog does not really know or do well.   While teaching this drill, keep all skills used simple and pick ones your dog will be successful with.

Post your session on the Facebook group!

Sly is first in this video and has done “Instant On”.  Going from a relaxed settle to working mode is not a problem for him.  I picked skills he knows well, heeling, line-ups, drops, One Way Focus, and spins.  Praise is the main reward he receives during this session.  Sorry we went out of camera view for a few seconds.

Riker is next in the video.  He has done this drill a few times, but this location is a bit distracting for him. This tells me, we need to practice this drill more in the future.  We work on line-ups, heeling, fronts, and finishes, along with drops.  When distracted, I push him out of the way, and tease him with verbal taunting.  Again, I use petting and praise as his main reinforcement.  At 3.25 marker, I ask Riker to jump and get next to me from a settle.  He does not jump up into position as quickly as he should.  So, we spent a bit more time working on this until I see more effort from Riker.  Towards the end of our session, I do see more effort in his efforts.  Hahaha.  His tail keeps on wagging. :>)

Karrde is last in the video.  He has not had a lot of training on this drill, so we kept the skills we trained easy ones to help him with success.  At the beginning of the session, Karrde was very distracted.   As a consequence, I tweaked his butt and then praised when he focused on me.  Persistence paid off and he started maintaining focus on his job and me.  Again, the reward was praise and some treats.  Note though, he is not giving treats with every success during this session.  Overall, I was pleased with his effort.

Questions? Ask DebbyQ

Your Task for this Week 

Training and Showing can and should be the same!

People train all the time in the ring.  If a dog doesn’t do signals and the handler gives another signal. During an agility course the dog doesn’t do weaves, the handler has their dog redo them.  While doing a sign if it is not performed well, the handler tries the sign again.  All these actions are training in the ring.

In order to get the most from your ring time, you should be able to have ways to communicate to your dog when he is right or when he is wrong.  There are a number of ways to do this.  You can give a negative marker if your dog is incorrect, you can take him off course, or you can abort the skill, exercise, or sign. How you respond to your dog when in the ring should be identical to how you would correct your dog in training.

Your training and showing should always be the same.  Your criteria, handling, and mental mindset should remain the same as well.  It is your job, as the handler and trainer, to keep your training and showing the same, and your mental and emotional state under control.

When training, I use a number of markers and cues to reward my dog.  These cues communicate when I am pleased with my dog’s effort.   When showing, I use the same markers and cues.   This is one step HOW TO make training and showing the same!  The more consistent I am using cues and markers in training, the more the show ring will become like “training”  when using the same cues.

POSITIVE MARKERS: These are verbal cues that I use to express my pleasure, and to reconnect and engage with my dog when we train or show.  I spend a lot of time building a history of reinforcement on these words.  After all, that is what will make those words rewarding when used in the show ring!

Words with special meaning.

• I use words such as “yes”, “boom”, or “awesome” to mark good attempts and efforts from my dog.
• When teaching, I pair these words with loads of treats or a great game of tug.
• While training, I use these words to reward my dog’s efforts.  Also, I continue to randomly pair these words with loads of treats or tug.
• In the ring, I use these words to reward and mark effort or correctness.  Hahaha.  Solo, my golden retriever, was so conditioned with these words, he would often drool when we were in the ring and I used a positive marker.  Now that is a conditioned response!
• Take your time and BUILD the VALUE to your words.

Applause can be rewarding!  Yes, this is a great one.

• Pair rewards your dog loves with applause.  YES, clapping your hands.
• Easy, my border collie, LOVED applause.  Hahaha.  He often puffed up and became even more animated as people clapped for dogs in other rings.
• Super fun to watch.   :>)

Smiling at your dog.  A smile can go a long way, as long as you really mean it!  A fake smile is lying to your dog and he will pick up on it quickly.

• When you smile, feel the love and warmth you have for your dog.
• Start to teach this with verbal comments that will bring a smile to your face.  “You’re AWESOME.”  “What a great boy you are.”
• Pair the smile, verbal comments with a reward your dog loves.
• Later, when using it in the ring, think in your mind “geez, you are wonderful” or “wow, what an awesome dog you are.”  Don’t say it just think it.  I have used this in the ring when my dog would do something WONDERFUL and you could see my dog puff up with pride.

When using a positive marker, I use one or a combination to reward my dogs.  Laughter is often added to.  Whatever you use, make it FUN and add loads of energy in the rewarding.  Take your time and work on these MARKERS in every training session.  The more fun your dog is having, the more excited he will be when the word or action is used!  Practice makes perfect!

Riker is next in the video.  He likes to bark, especially when he gets excited.  I want to be able to use all my markers when showing, so he is learning in that being “quite” is a rule when I use markers.  A simple “quite” or “shhhhh” command is used and the marker stops.  When he is quite, the marker training begins again. 

Karrde is last in this video.  He is still learning about positive markers, but you can see, he already loves the use of reward markers.

A NEGATIVE MARKER, is a word or phrase, to let your dog know this behavior or response was not correct.  In other words, the cookie drawer is now closed.  This is a counter balance to my Positive Marker.

• Pick a simple word(s) or phrase(s).  Some examples of what I use are “nope,” or “excuse me,” or “try harder,” and my favorite “you’re fired”.
• I use different words or phrases, and teach my dog that the word/s mean “your fun has just come to an end” or “the reward drawer has just closed, and you have missed your opportunity”.
• When using this word or phrase, I pair it with something that my dog finds unpleasant, and wants to avoid in the future.
• You can use anything from the U-Missed It Game, with-holding rewards, stop training, a leash pop, putting your dog in a crate, or have your dog watch you train another dog, etc.

When and How to Use

• Use a negative marker when your dog is wrong, or is not giving you effort.
• The tone of voice is calm and definite, not mad or frustrated.
• When your dog is learning a skill, this word might simply mean that your dog will not get a reward.
• As your dog understands the skill, the negative marker might mean anything from no reward, or the training session is ending, or I will train another dog.
• When using a negative marker, it needs to be paired with something your dog wants to avoid.  The meaning needs to be of value to your dog.  Something like with-holding broccoli from your dog when he doesn’t really care about broccoli would be pointless.   :>0

Sly and I start out the video training markers that we can use when showing.  We work on the “continue on a command” concept.  I.e. when I give a heel command, Sly is not given another command. Rather, he is expected to move when I move.  While heeling, Sly forges a bit.  My response is a freeze of motion, a verbal marker, and a leash pop.  During our session, I expect 100% focus when in or out of the ring set up.  He loves the extra training challenges and receives loads of rewards for all his effort. 

Riker is next in the video, and like Sly, Riker is new to a continuation of a command.  Shame on me!  When heeling, and he doesn’t move, I pull on the leash, and laugh at him.  Gradually, he catches on and begins moving with me without an extra “heel” command.  I use verbal praise to let him know when he is correct.  At marker 5.04, Riker hit the gate with his butt.  I laughed and acted like it was a great thing to do.

Next, outside for some contact training.  Karrde is first on the video.  He is still learning to do the bottom behavior of the dog walk, a drop with his body on the plank.  When he does a good job, he is rewarded with either treats or a ball. After two bad attempts, I “fire” him and send him back to his box.  This is where he waits and “watches” others train.  Next, Riker gets to train while teasing his younger brother.  After, Karrde gets another opportunity to be correct.  This training session taught Karrde a consequence for failure to perform.  In addition, this is a marker that I will be able to use later when showing.  Last in the video is Sly.  He wanted to play.  :>)

BEFORE PROGRESSING, REVIEW YOUR CHECK LIST.

PDF

Questions? Ask DebbyQ

Your Task for this Week 

Training and Showing can and should be the same!

People train all the time in the ring.  If a dog doesn’t do signals and the handler gives another signal. During an agility course the dog doesn’t do weaves, the handler has their dog redo them.  While doing a sign if it is not performed well, the handler tries the sign again.  All these actions are training in the ring.

In order to get the most from your ring time, you should be able to have ways to communicate to your dog when he is right or when he is wrong.  There are a number of ways to do this.  You can give a negative marker if your dog is incorrect, you can take him off course, or you can abort the skill, exercise, or sign. How you respond to your dog when in the ring should be identical to how you would correct your dog in training.

Your training and showing should always be the same.  Your criteria, handling, and mental mindset should remain the same as well.  It is your job, as the handler and trainer, to keep your training and showing the same, and your mental and emotional state under control.

When training, I use a number of markers and cues to reward my dog.  These cues communicate when I am pleased with my dog’s effort.   When showing, I use the same markers and cues.   This is one step HOW TO make training and showing the same!  The more consistent I am using cues and markers in training, the more the show ring will become like “training”  when using the same cues.

POSITIVE MARKERS: These are verbal cues that I use to express my pleasure, and to reconnect and engage with my dog when we train or show.  I spend a lot of time building a history of reinforcement on these words.  After all, that is what will make those words rewarding when used in the show ring!

Words with special meaning.

• I use words such as “yes”, “boom”, or “awesome” to mark good attempts and efforts from my dog.
• When teaching, I pair these words with loads of treats or a great game of tug.
• While training, I use these words to reward my dog’s efforts.  Also, I continue to randomly pair these words with loads of treats or tug.
• In the ring, I use these words to reward and mark effort or correctness.  Hahaha.  Solo, my golden retriever, was so conditioned with these words, he would often drool when we were in the ring and I used a positive marker.  Now that is a conditioned response!
• Take your time and BUILD the VALUE to your words.

Applause can be rewarding!  Yes, this is a great one.

• Pair rewards your dog loves with applause.  YES, clapping your hands.
• Easy, my border collie, LOVED applause.  Hahaha.  He often puffed up and became even more animated as people clapped for dogs in other rings.
• Super fun to watch.   :>)

Smiling at your dog.  A smile can go a long way, as long as you really mean it!  A fake smile is lying to your dog and he will pick up on it quickly.

• When you smile, feel the love and warmth you have for your dog.
• Start to teach this with verbal comments that will bring a smile to your face.  “You’re AWESOME.”  “What a great boy you are.”
• Pair the smile, verbal comments with a reward your dog loves.
• Later, when using it in the ring, think in your mind “geez, you are wonderful” or “wow, what an awesome dog you are.”  Don’t say it just think it.  I have used this in the ring when my dog would do something WONDERFUL and you could see my dog puff up with pride.

When using a positive marker, I use one or a combination to reward my dogs.  Laughter is often added to.  Whatever you use, make it FUN and add loads of energy in the rewarding.  Take your time and work on these MARKERS in every training session.  The more fun your dog is having, the more excited he will be when the word or action is used!  Practice makes perfect!

Riker is next in the video.  He likes to bark, especially when he gets excited.  I want to be able to use all my markers when showing, so he is learning in that being “quite” is a rule when I use markers.  A simple “quite” or “shhhhh” command is used and the marker stops.  When he is quite, the marker training begins again. 

Karrde is last in this video.  He is still learning about positive markers, but you can see, he already loves the use of reward markers.

A NEGATIVE MARKER, is a word or phrase, to let your dog know this behavior or response was not correct.  In other words, the cookie drawer is now closed.  This is a counter balance to my Positive Marker.

• Pick a simple word(s) or phrase(s).  Some examples of what I use are “nope,” or “excuse me,” or “try harder,” and my favorite “you’re fired”.
• I use different words or phrases, and teach my dog that the word/s mean “your fun has just come to an end” or “the reward drawer has just closed, and you have missed your opportunity”.
• When using this word or phrase, I pair it with something that my dog finds unpleasant, and wants to avoid in the future.
• You can use anything from the U-Missed It Game, with-holding rewards, stop training, a leash pop, putting your dog in a crate, or have your dog watch you train another dog, etc.

When and How to Use

• Use a negative marker when your dog is wrong, or is not giving you effort.
• The tone of voice is calm and definite, not mad or frustrated.
• When your dog is learning a skill, this word might simply mean that your dog will not get a reward.
• As your dog understands the skill, the negative marker might mean anything from no reward, or the training session is ending, or I will train another dog.
• When using a negative marker, it needs to be paired with something your dog wants to avoid.  The meaning needs to be of value to your dog.  Something like with-holding broccoli from your dog when he doesn’t really care about broccoli would be pointless.   :>0

Sly and I start out the video training markers that we can use when showing.  We work on the “continue on a command” concept.  I.e. when I give a heel command, Sly is not given another command. Rather, he is expected to move when I move.  While heeling, Sly forges a bit.  My response is a freeze of motion, a verbal marker, and a leash pop.  During our session, I expect 100% focus when in or out of the ring set up.  He loves the extra training challenges and receives loads of rewards for all his effort. 

Riker is next in the video, and like Sly, Riker is new to a continuation of a command.  Shame on me!  When heeling, and he doesn’t move, I pull on the leash, and laugh at him.  Gradually, he catches on and begins moving with me without an extra “heel” command.  I use verbal praise to let him know when he is correct.  At marker 5.04, Riker hit the gate with his butt.  I laughed and acted like it was a great thing to do.

Next, outside for some contact training.  Karrde is first on the video.  He is still learning to do the bottom behavior of the dog walk, a drop with his body on the plank.  When he does a good job, he is rewarded with either treats or a ball. After two bad attempts, I “fire” him and send him back to his box.  This is where he waits and “watches” others train.  Next, Riker gets to train while teasing his younger brother.  After, Karrde gets another opportunity to be correct.  This training session taught Karrde a consequence for failure to perform.  In addition, this is a marker that I will be able to use later when showing.  Last in the video is Sly.  He wanted to play.  :>)

BEFORE PROGRESSING, REVIEW YOUR CHECK LIST.

PDF

Questions? Ask DebbyQ

bump up

The Hide and Seek game teaches your dog to keep an eye on you and that working hard to find you pays off BIG.  Also, this is a great game when you have multiple dogs.  I often carry a few treats in my pocket and hide when taking my dogs for a run or taking them out to potty.

Teaching the FUNdamentals

• Have some high and low value treats.
• Toss a few low value treats on the ground and tell your dog to get the treats OR wait for your dog to become distracted.
• When your dog is distracted, quietly duck down or run around a corner and hide from your dog.
• Once hidden, call your dog using his name or your recall word.
• Only call once and then wait patiently.
• If you hear the dog looking, but he can’t locate you, make a quick silly noise to help your dog locate you.
• Then wait until he finds you!
• Once the dog finds you, have a big party with a high value reward or a game of tug.
• Randomly play this game throughout the day.  Play in many new locations in the house, backyard, or training building.
• HAVE FUN!

Bump It Up

• As your dog gets great at the game, start to hide in more difficult place such as behind doors, in closets or showers (yes, the shower is off) or any place you would have played the childhood game of Hide-N-Seek!  When your dog gets finds you play / tug and start all over again!
• Have multiple dogs?  When outside with your dogs, quietly disappear and wait to see which dog will find you first.  The first that finds you is the only one that gets all the treats.

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

• Your dog isn’t interested in finding you when you hide.  Simplify the game and make it really easy to find you.  Build the excitement in finding you before increasing the difficulty.  Keep the session fast and fun!

Video Notes: This video is Poe’s first-time playing Hide & Seek with me.  We use two different locations during this session.

The first session is in the building and used three different hiding spots.  I would toss some treats and then disappear.  For the first time, Poe did a really good job of finding me once he ate the tossed treats.

Next, I am out in my driveway.   Hahaha.  You can see Poe is getting better at the game as he is watching me with one eye as he is eating the treats and catches me trying to disappear.  Finally, I am able to hide and when Poe notices I am gone starts to look for me.  Big party when he does.  

BEFORE PROGRESSING, REVIEW YOUR CHECK LIST.

PDF

Questions? Ask DebbyQ

monthly review

Your Task for this Week

BEFORE PROGRESSING, REVIEW YOUR CHECK LIST.

PDF

Questions? Ask DebbyQ

PDF Files useful for this week

Questions? Ask DebbyQ