K9 Focus-Bring FOCUS to Life - Week 1

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Topic - Maintaining FocusGet It GameNew LocationWith MeBalance - Food & ToysTraining Skills

Attention and focus can make or break a performance.
When training, insist that your dog pay 100 percent attention to you, and be alert for any breaks in focus that may happen. Rehearse GOOD HABITS
Maintaining Focus – Attention and focus can make or break a performance. It is hard for your dog to learn, perform a skill or exercise correctly, if you do not have his complete attention. When training, insist that your dog pay 100 percent attention to you, and be alert for any breaks in focus that may happen.

Once you begin a training session, be aware of any “down time” that may occur while you are working with your dog. Down time happens when you are getting more treats, setting up jumps, walking a course, etc. During this time, if your dog is allowed to wonder around, sniff or visit with others, he is rehearsing a behavior that you most certainly will frown upon later when competing.

Rehearse go Debby Quigley and Rip focusing od HABITS. Before ever getting your dog out of a crate, make a plan. With a plan in mind, you will be able to set out everything you need for your training session. Being prepared will enable you to move from one skill or exercise to the next without losing your dog’s focus. While you are working with your dog, insist that he give his undivided attention and stays engaged with you.

How do you do this? One way is to randomly reward your dog’s effort to pay attention to you by paying him with treats or a game of tug. WHAT? your dog won’t tug? Play the “KrazyKookie” game with him. This is a great game of having him chase the treat that stays in your hand until he catches the yummy.

Next, teach your dog it is in his best interest to watch you closely. While training, be unpredictable and spontaneous with your movements, or give unexpected commands to discourage him from taking even a single glance away from you. Your ability to praise and reward attention, and to discourage inattentiveness, will have a direct effect on your dog’s performance during training and also in a ring setting.

debbyq boys

While training, maintain your dog’s focus in non-audible ways. Here are a few ideas:

Push and run away or
Push and play tug or KrazyKookie with your dog.
Drop a toy or treat pocket to your dog that is hidden underneath your arm.
When leaving on a sit or start-line, quickly turn and toss a reward to your dog.

Attention and focus can make or break a performance in any sport. Work to build and maintain your dog’s focus on you during all training sessions that will ensure your success when competing or showing.

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Get It Game – Foundation Review

Playing the “Get It” Game with your dog will encourage your dog to leave your side in a brisk and determined manner. He will also learn to turn promptly and return to you with intensity, drive, and focus. The “Get it Game” will enhance your dog’s agility, obedience, and rally performances.

Just think about how many applications this game will have in your training and everyday life with your dog. This one skill is the foundation of all skills that require your dog to come to you quickly, to see and know where you are, any retrieve, fast turns back toward you, and so on.

The principal parts of this game are, grab and return, of this skill a habit! That means once the HABIT for the spin and return is established, wean off all verbal encouragement to return to you quickly.

Get It Game Reminders:

Use high value treats.
When you start to review this game pick a no distraction location.
Always toss treat CLOSE to you to review or teach and only increase the toss when your dog shows you the desired criteria.
Use extra encouragement to get your dog to grab and come back quickly only when needed.
Be sure to regain his focus after he returns to you by jumping for a treat or toy in your hand or talking to him while you get ready for another game!
Greet your dog with the KK/tug game when he returns. This will help build DESIRE to get back to you quickly.
Wean off extra verbal encouragement only IF your dog has shown that he has the HABIT to get back to you quickly.
Video your training session so you can analyze your session and your dog’s performance of the skill.

The foundations for this great game can be found on this page.
Get It Game Foundation Page

Video Notes: In this clip, Poe and I are reviewing the Get It Game. The first few repetitions, I use a command to ensure he will snatch treat and get back to me quickly. I see from the start that he has developed the “habit” to grab and run back quickly. This is the most important criteria in this game. If you watch Poe closely, you can see his thought to return and his head starting to turn back to me. At video marker .58, I start to wean away from additional encouragement. Poe does an awesome job and I am delighted with his responses. If at any time I see him taking too long to pick up, eat, or dash back, I stop the progression and get the criteria I am looking for.

Get It Game -Changing Location

Adding on to skill will be adding new locations. When looking for places to train, first look at the distraction level it will be to your dog. Always start in a low distraction location such as your back yard, garage, different room in your house.

Goal – To make a habit of your dog running out to a tossed treat, pick up the treat and dash back quickly to you. Your dog should never look around or stop to chew. This game is the foundation of MANY skills used in obedience, rally and agility! MAKE it a HABIT!

YOUR ASSIGNMENT

Use soft easy to eat high value treats.
Go to your different area of training to start to test the Habit of running out, grabbing and running back. .
In your different area, toss a short distance (5 feet) and only increase the toss when your dog shows you the desired criteria.
Use extra encouragement to get your dog to grab and come back quickly only when needed.
Be sure to regain his focus after he returns to you by jumping for a treat or toy in your hand or talking to him while you get ready for another game!
Greet your dog with the KK/tug game when he returns. Spend time engaging as this will help build FOCUS and DESIRE to get back to you quickly.
ONLY wean off extra verbal encouragement only IF your dog has shown that he has the HABIT to get back to you quickly.
Video your training session so you can analyze your session and your dog’s performance of the skill.

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

Accepting a slow pick up. Insist that your dog grabs the treat quickly. Use verbal words and walk away from your dog to get him to hurry.
Allowing the dog to stop and chew a treat. Haha. Your dog can eat and run at the same time. Make it urgent for your dog to hurry and get back to you. If needed, teach your dog to hurry and eat before starting to teach the Get It Game. While he is close to you, feed him small treats one after another in a rapid fire progression.
Letting the dog do a loop or wide return after grabbing the treat. When your dog is bending to grab the treat, start to immediately call and insist it is urgent for him to get back to you quickly.
Letting the dog run by or pass you instead of coming to you directly. Make sure you play KK or tug with your dog when he comes to you. This is not a front, rather his motion doesn’t travel past you. Make coming to you fun!

Video Notes: In this video, Poe is in a different training area. This is the street in front of my house. Since it is a new spot, his come word was used to ensure his response met my criteria. I loved his grab and get back to me on all efforts. Note I always maintained his focus between repetitions. This is the “start” of building the HABIT of focus and fun!

Remember, the show ring is a NEW LOCATION and you do not always have an opportunity to ACCLIMATE your dog in the ring before you show. This drill will teach your dog to engage regardless the location or distraction.

A new environment adds an additional element of distraction to 35FCB531-04CC-4683-B15E-907BE44DC84D any exercise or skill and actually creates a new experience for your dog. The New Location Drill helps to teach your dog that new places are fun and exciting to train.

Train in new places so frequently that training in new locations becomes commonplace for your dog. In addition, this will eliminate your dog’s need to “warm up” by beginning your training session immediately upon arriving at a location.

Some ideas for New Locations might be a park or parking lot, pet shops, hardware stores, feed stores, fabric stores, outside of dog parks (no not in them), under a covered area of shopping center or closed business park. There are loads of places to practice. When going to a new spot to train, ALWAYS start with an easier location. Make sure your dog can be successful before progressing to a higher distraction or more difficult area.

Goal – To teach your dog that training in new places is fun and exciting. This is a key to no longer needing to acclimate your dog when going to new locations.

There are 3 basic levels of distractions.

Low distraction, such as an empty parking lot or a closed store frontage.
Medium distraction, such as an area with a few noises, maybe a few people moving around.
A High level area would be an area with noises, people, and/or dogs in motion.

New Location Reminders:

This step starts teaching your dog that when something happens, to look at you for FUN.
Always start teaching in an easy location with Low distraction, such as an empty parking lot or a closed business store front.
ALWAYS engage with your dog all the way back to his crate once you have finished your session.
Keep your sessions fun and build up a reward history and successes.
Practice your leash on/off skill every time you are getting your dog. That should be a habit!
Resist skill training of any kind with your dog during this phase of the drill. Only play and engage and build a solid foundation BEFORE adding training.

YOUR ASSIGNMENT

At least 1 or more days this week, take your dog to 3 NEW low distraction locations in each session. No people or dogs.
Each time you go to a new location, PLAY for 1-2 minutes. Set a timer and play tug or KK.
When your time is up, engage with your dog all the way back to his crate and go to another location to repeat 1-2 minutes of play.
Keep your sessions fun and build up a reward history and successes.
Practice your leash on/off skill every time you are getting your dog.
No other training. Only play and engage.

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

Letting the dog look around. Letting the dog look around inadvertently builds in a focus delay. The second your dog gets out of the crate, insist on engagement of either KK or tug. This will create the HABT of focusing on you when coming out of his crate and in all new locations.
Accepting no engagement the minute the dog gets out of the crate. Insist your dog engage with you. If he will not, either his motivation isn’t high enough OR the location is too distracting. Simplify, we need success to build a reward and fun history.
Losing engagement going back to the crate. Keep the game going even when FEEL you are finished! REMEMBER – training/showing/performance starts when your dog comes out of his crate and isn’t over until he goes back in!

Video Notes: Poe and I hit 3 low distracting locations in this video. My front yard, the street, and a neighbor’s yard. Poe did a great job staying focused and eagerly engaging with me. Games were tug and KK. This effort is telling me that Poe is ready to move to a bit more distracting locations. Haha. Bad trainer, I forgot to set the timer.

How many times have you seen a dog leave the ring, visit the judge, or wander around the ring as though he were lost? Many things can happen when you’re in the ring, but you want to trust that your dog will always be with you, thinking about where you are, and what you two will do next. WITH ME will teach your dog just that!

with-me-collar

In fact, anytime your dog is out with you, unless you tell him otherwise, he should never leave your space. Think of “your space” as an invisible area around you. What space you determine is up to you, BUT it’s important to have a criteria. Usually, I pick a side my dog should remain on as well as maximum distance he can walk next to me.

For instance, my space is about 2-4 feet on my right or left. Poe’s criteria is on my left side, while Riker and Karrde are on my right. My dogs do not have to be looking at me, this is NOT heeling, but they have an awareness of where I am, what I am doing, and where I am going.

Teaching your dog to stay with you at all times will ensure that your dog chooses to stay WITH YOU during training sessions, in the ring, or at other times in everyday life. You should not have to repeat commands over and over, tell your dog to “come”, or say his name to keep him with you.

Goal – to teach your dog to always stay in your space at all times and not to leave unless given a command.

No matter where you are or what you are doing, your dog should ALWAYS walk on a loose leash. If you continually rely on the leash to control your dog, who/what actually has control? You or the Leash? Be aware of overusing your leash to keep your dog in your space. If your dog leaves your space or pulls on the leash, balance leash corrections with “hands on” consequences!

With Me – Collar Tension Reminders:

When starting to train the “With Me”, teach the collar pressure that will become a cue or consequence for leaving position.
Praise your dog for going with pressure on his collar. No treats are needed.

YOUR ASSIGNMENT

When starting to train the “With Me”, teach collar pressure first as this will become a cue or consequence for leaving position later in training. Start in a no distraction location. Gently take your dog’s collar and apply slow backward pressure on his collar. Praise your dog for going with pressure on his collar. No verbal commands or treats are needed. Repeat several times so your dog easily moves with any collar pressure before progressing. Progress to Pressure toward you. Practice this at least a few times this week.
With-me-week-1

Gently take your dog’s collar and apply slow backward pressure on his collar.
Your dog can either back up with the pressure OR turn towards you, but we want him to go in the direction of the pressure.
Praise your dog for going with pressure on his collar. No treats are needed.
Repeat several times so your dog easily moves with any collar pressure before progressing.

Pressure toward you.

Gently take your dog by the collar and apply pressure towards you.
Your dog should move to your side.
Praise your dog for moving towards you with the pressure.
There is no verbal command. We want your dog to learn to move willingly with collar pressure.

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

Your dog resists when you take his collar. Before continuing with your training, condition your dog by taking his collar and immediately feeding him a treat. Repeat this several times until your dog is comfortable with your taking his collar.
Your dog will not move with collar pressure. This concept often takes a dog a bit before he catches on to the criteria. Make sure your dog is standing up and your pressure is backwards opposed to up when applying pressure to his collar. Be consistent and persistent while training.
Your dog will not stay in your “With Me” position when standing. Take your time teaching this skill in a non-distracting area. If your dog has been pulling on leash or leaving you for an extended period, it will take time to recondition him.

I often walk my dog on my right side and heel with my dog on the left. I find with some dogs, it alleviates forging or confusion of my criteria between heeling and the “with me” or walking on a loose leash.

Video Notes: Poe and I are reviewing Collar Tension. Poe was introduced to this skill when he was younger. He is very happy to be compliant which tells me he is ready to progress and move to learning the WITH ME skill.

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Balance – Food and Toys

What is Balance between FOOD and TOYS? It is the ability for a trainer to use either during training and their dog finds either the same reward value.

Is a Balance of the two important? Yes, I find having the balance very useful. It gives me the opportunity to use a toy as a reward for sustained focus play OR the use of treats when I want to reward in stationary or specific position.

What if your dog does not have desire for toys or treats? While it is
balance much more common for a dog to have food drive, after all he has to eat to survive, both food and toy desire can be and should be built.

Do some dogs have toy desire as puppies and loose the desire as they get older? This is something I see all too often. Many issues arise as a puppy gets older. Sometimes when a puppy starts to lose their teeth, a trainer will switch to treats, and by the time adult teeth have come in, the dog has DECIDED that treats are better.

Another scenario is a dog prefers treats. Seeing that their dog has more focus when the trainer is holding treats, and face it, it is often easier, the trainer then defers to the dog and stops insisting on tug and “lets” their dog dictate what rewards are used. Letting your dog dictate what they will work for can become a huge trap and should be avoided at all costs. Insist your dog tug can be really hard work and the process can take a lot of time and persistence.

In the long run, I want a balanced dog. While training a dog, I will work with food, so I can build desire in work while still working and building desire in tug. If my dog will not tug, all training stops so we can focus on tugging.

Goal – To balance the value between treats and toys so a handler can use either during a training session.

This section is all about creating a “balance” between toys and treats. This process might take longer than a month BUT it is worth your effort in the long run!

Balance – Food and Toys Reminders:

balance food toy

First, does your dog prefer tug or treats?
If your dog prefers food over toys, gather a few HIGHLY desirable toys and LOW value food.
If your dog prefers toys over food, gather HIGH value treats and a LOWER value toy. Use games like KK which will make the food more interesting and make sure your dog is hungry.
When switching from desired toy/food to less desired toy/food, insist on your dog engage. You MUST persist.
If your dog will not tug/KK, keep insisting and do not give up. Interaction of any kind is good.
If your dog is a tug lover, do just the opposite of the above with treats and KK.
My preference will always be use of toys over food to the point that I will let any training with treats slide altogether if my puppy will not play with me. In the long run, the behaviors I will teach will be easily taught if I can build and maintain the “balance” between treats and toys.

YOUR ASSIGNMENT

If your dog is a treat dog, gather a few desirable toys and LOW value food.
Grab your dog to do this simple drill. Play tug for just a few seconds.
Stop playing and give your dog a treat. Then start tugging again. Insist your dog tugs.
If your dog tugs, play for a few seconds, stop and give a treat and then tug again and end your session.
If your dog will not tug, keep insisting and DO NOT GIVE UP. Interaction of any kind with the toy is good. I.e. step on or chasing toy counts BUT DO NOT give any more treats. If your dog tries to leave, put your dog on leash. If your dog WILL NOT engage at all, put your dog in its crate and ignore your dog for a few hours before trying to play again.
Repeat this drill a few times throughout the day.
If your dog is a tug lover, do just the opposite of the above. Play KK a bit, switch to tug for a second, then go back to playing KK. Use HIGH value treats and lower value toy. Insist your dog eat the treat.

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

Giving up trying to get your dog to play/tug once you have given a treat. Letting your dog decide if they will play or not is most likely the biggest reason dogs do not tug.
Your dog doesn’t like to tug. When teaching tug, avoid pushing a toy at or putting a toy in your dog’s mouth. This is often demotivating. Think SQUIRREL. A squirrel will run away from your dog, not jump in your dog’s mouth. Haha.

Video Note: Poe is showing the first step for balance food=toys. When I first got Poe, he was all about food. He loved food much more than toys. Haha. When I saw it, we immediately started the Balance game. It has paid off. Note how we are playing. I am pulling the toy away and making it fun to chase.

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