K9 Focus-Bring FOCUS to Life - Week 4

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Get It GameNew LocationWith MeBalance - Food & ToysReviewCan UR Dog?Training Skills

Only when your dog can be successful with last week’s skill progression, adding distractions, progress to adding a toy toss instead of a treat toss. Use a toy your dog loves OR if your dog doesn’t play with toys, this is a chance to start to teach bringing a toy or food pocket (lotus ball) back to you.

GOAL – To start to grow the Get It Game skill to include tossed toy, food pocket, lotus ball, etc. This step will build the HABIT of grabbing and bringing back any object in a quick manner. This skill is something that will enhance your training and give a great retrieve foundation.

toy Get It Game – Replace treat with toy Reminders:

When adding a new criteria, the toy, to the Get It Game, always start the toss a few feet in front of you and your dog.
Keep it easy and only increase the distance of toss once your dog is maintaining criteria.
This stage will grow the Get It Game and start to create the HABIT of run out, grab, and run back a HABIT.
Greet your dog with the KK/tug game when he returns. This will build DESIRE to get back to you quickly.
IMPORTANT: Wean off extra verbal encouragement only IF your dog has shown that he has the HABIT to get back to you quickly.
Anytime you are playing the “Get It” Game with your dog OR tossing an object (db, toy, bumper treat, etc.,) INSIST that your dog grabs and get backs to you promptly and with intensity, drive, and focus. MAKE it a HABIT!

The foundation steps for this great game can be found on this page.
Get It Game page

YOUR ASSIGNMENT

Get your dog and a toy your dog likes. While handing onto your dog’ collar, toss the toy a few feet in front of you and your dog.
First few tosses are kept easy and only increase the distance of toss once your dog is maintaining the GIG criteria.
This stage will grow the Get It Game and create the HABIT of run out, grab, and run back an object.
Make the game fun by always greeting your dog with the KK/tug game when he returns. This will build DESIRE to get back to you quickly.
Repeat the sequence a few times before ending your session.
Wean off extra verbal encouragement only IF your dog has shown that he has the HABIT to get back to you quickly.
While playing the “Get It” Game with your dog, INSIST that your dog grab and get back to you promptly with intensity, drive, and focus anytime you toss anything including balls, bumpers etc. MAKE it a HABIT!

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

Accepting a slow pick up. Insist that your dog grabs the treat quickly. Use verbal words and walk away from your dog to get him to hurry.
Letting the dog do a loop or wide return after grabbing the treat. When your dog is bending to grab the treat, start to immediately call and insist it is urgent for him to get back to you quickly.
Letting the dog run by or pass you instead of coming to you directly. Make sure you play KK or tug with your dog when he comes to you. This is not a front rather his motion doesn’t travel past you. Make coming to you fun!

Video Notes: In this session, Poe and I have added a toy to the Get It Game skill. True confession time, Poe is weak at this skill. He loves to shake and delays coming back to me. This is a possible future problem so Poe and I will start working a lot on this. In this session, his lack of intent to hurry back is what we are working on. All tosses are done very close to me, so this way I can control what Poe does easier. When he returns quickly, he gets loads of rewards. Once in the session, he opted to stop to shake the toy. The repetition was interrupted, and his play was stopped. Then, I reset the attempt and Poe did better. I was rewarding him with a treat as well as loads of tug. Poe is “balanced” in the use of treats vs toys. We will get into balance more during this class.

This week we will Test and Analyze engagement and focus in New Locations. While doing the NEW LOCATION DRILL, we want to see our dog jump out of the crate focused and ready to work. Over time and many sessions, this will build the HABIT of FOCUS anytime you are in a new area. NEW LOCATION = FUN = FOCUS!

Goals – To teach your dog to focus and engage in new places and ignore distractions. This week will test your dog’s ability to immediately focus and engage in various locations and distractions.

New Location drill Reminders:

Pick a combination of all three levels of distractions. Low, Medium and High distraction levels.
Every session will be, PLAY for 1-2 minutes and maintain focus all the way back to your vehicle. Keep your dog engaged for the time he is out with you.
Start in areas that will be less distracting for your dog and build distractions only once your dog shows confidence.
If your dog can’t immediately engage, the area is too distracting. Simplify by moving further form distractions or even going to a different locations.
LAWAYS practice your leash on/off skill every time you are getting your dog.

YOUR ASSIGNMENT

Pick a combination of all three levels of distractions. Low, Medium and High distraction levels for your 3 NEW locations session.
Each time you take your dog out, PLAY for 1-2 minutes. This can be tug, KK, or chasing a toy or you.
Practice your leash on/off skill every time you are getting your dog.
When your time is up, keep your dog engaged as you put your dog up, then go to another location to repeat 1-2 minutes of play.
Start in areas that will be less distracting for your dog and build distractions only once your dog shows confidence.
Make notes of the play session and the type of location after every session.
Keep all sessions short and fun.

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

Letting the dog look around. The second your dog gets out of the crate, insist on engagement of either KK or tug. This will create the HABT of focusing on you when coming out of his crate and in all new locations.
Accepting no engagement the minute the dog gets out of the crate. Insist your dog engage with you. If he will not, either his motivation isn’t high enough OR the location is too distracting. Simplify, we need success to build a reward and fun history.
Losing engagement going back to the crate. Keep the game going even when FEEL you are finished! REMEMBER – training/showing/performance starts when your dog comes out of his crate and isn’t over until he goes back in!
Increasing distraction difficulty BEFORE your dog is ready. If you release your dog from his crate and he will not immediately focus and engage on you, the area is too much! Simplify by moving further from distractions OR moving to a new location.

Video Notes: Comments are on videos. Haha. Hard training and talking all at one time. Poe did a great job with this test. Each location that Poe showed immediate focus and engagement, I would add focus duration. The amount of duration would depend on the desire he was showing me. When I saw a distraction getting ready to happen, I would immediately break into play

Adding Distractions on the With Me is the next step in training this skill. Use a lower value object to teach this concept, such as a piece of paper, an empty bowl, or box. Over several training sessions and once your dog is confident, place out higher value objects, such as toys, treats, etc. ONLY increase the value of the distraction once your dog is confident and successful with the low value distractions.

Goal – To train your dog to stay in your space UNTIL given another command, while gradually introducing distractions.

With Me adding distractions Reminders:

Use a low value distraction for your training session.
With Me is NOT heeling, rather you are out for a walk with your dog. Your hands are hanging naturally at your side.
Start further from the distraction and move closer only as your dog becomes confident with his task. Praise your dog for his good choices.
Note: I rely more on praise for a reward and treats or toys are used at a minimum if at all.
If at any time your dog starts to go in another direction or move to look at the distraction, mark it with a negative marker word such as “nope” or “wrong”. Calmly walk towards your dog and take hold of your dog’s collar and move back to where he left you. LET GO of your dog’s collar while you continue to move and PRAISE your dog for making the choice of moving toward you.
At this level, we want our dog to be “thinking” about where we are and what we are doing.
REPEAT the With Me sequence walking toward, around, or past the distraction.

YOUR ASSIGNMENT

Place a low value distraction out in your training area before getting your dog.
Have your dog on a leash. (Reminder to practice Leash O/O).
The leash MUST always remain loose, say “With Me” and begin to slowly walk around the area where your distraction is located. Start further from the distraction and move closer only as your dog becomes confident with his task. Praise your dog for his good choices.
Note: I rely more on praise for a reward and treats or toys are used at a minimum if at all.
If at any time your dog starts to go in another direction, begins to pull ahead of you, or goes toward a distraction, mark it with a negative marker word such as “nope” or “wrong”.
Calmly go to your dog and take hold of your dog’s collar and apply pressure on the collar toward where your dog should be.
LET GO of your dog’s collar while you continue to move slowly away from your dog.
PRAISE your dog for making the choice of moving toward you.
At this level, we want our dog to be “thinking” about where we are and what we are doing.
REPEAT the With Me sequence walking around or past the distraction.

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

Your dog readily goes to a distraction. Simplify by moving away and walking further from the distraction. Let your dog be correct so he can be praised and then test him again by moving a little closer. DO NOT use a “leave it” command. Why? If you use a command, then it is YOUR responsibility to always give command. That is unless you give a ‘leave it” it becomes ok for your dog to get it unless you give the Leave it command.
Consequence. Calmly take your dog’s collar in your hand. Back up. RELEASE the collar and continue moving away from your dog. If your dog continues to come towards you PRAISE your dog for making a great decision.
Waiting too long to mark your dog is incorrect. That is, the first inch your dog leaves or doesn’t remain in your space, ACT!
Using rewards/lures to keep your dog with you. This drill really doesn’t need treat rewards, rather use your praise and petting to reward.
Holding onto your dog’s collar AFTER moving your dog back to your space. The best way to know if your dog will stay in your space is to have your hands off your dog and the leash is always loose.
Not giving verbal praise when your dog is giving effort. Verbal input when your dog is right or wrong is a great way to communicate your wishes to your dog. HAHA. Just do not be excessive!

Video Notes: Poe and I have started working with more distractions on our With Me. He did so will with a bowl, I took a chance of switching to a toy. Notice when we started with the toy on the ground, I stayed further away from the toy on the ground. I did use treats as a reward for some of his success BUT relied more on praise. While using a treat, I do need to watch placement and use or the treat to my benefit. That is, I should be delivering next to me rather than in from of me.

Video Notes: In this video, Karrde and Riker work on the With Me concept. Riker actually has more experience with this concept, but the balls that I have placed on the floor prove a challenge to him.

During this session, we walk toward and around the balls on the ground. Anytime one of the boys does not stay at my right side, I take their collar and apply pressure to my right side. Near the end of the video, Riker and I walk up and stop close to the distractions. Riker did a great job “thinking” about where I was and what I was doing, even to the point of backing up when I took a step back.

While teaching this concept, I have a clear criteria for my dog, to stay at my right side no matter where I go or what distractions there are.

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Balance – Food and Toys

While training a dog, work with food if the dog is HIGH food drive to build desire in work/skill. In separate sessions, continue to work and build desire in tug.

Goal – Achieving a balance between treats and toys as rewards during training sessions can enhance the effectiveness of the training. This approach keeps the dog engaged and motivated, offering a variety of incentives.

This week we are wrapping up our Balance work between food and toys. While this is the end of learning about this skill, it is NOT the end of your work. Balance is ever changing and it is YOUR job to keep your eye on it and maintain the balance.

Reminders BALANCE Bumping Up

balance week 4 june

If your dog prefers food over toys, gather a few HIGHLY desirable toys and LOW value food.
If your dog prefers toys over food, gather HIGH value treats and a LOWER value toy. Use games like KK which will make the food more interesting and make sure your dog is hungry.
When switching from desired toy/food to less desired toy/food, insist on your dog engage. You MUST persist.
If your dog will not tug/KK, keep insisting and do not give up. Interaction of any kind is good.
If your dog is a tug lover, do just the opposite of the above with treats and KK.
My preference will always be use of toys over food to the point that I will let any training with treats slide altogether if my puppy will not play with me. In the long run, the behaviors I will teach will be easily taught if I can build and maintain the “balance” between treats and toys.

YOUR ASSIGNMENT

If your dog Prefers TREATS, place two bowls with low value treats on a chair or on the floor. HAHA.
First play tug for just a few seconds with a high value toy. Stop playing, ask for a sit, and give your dog a treat from the bowl or your hand then tug. INSIST he tug. If your dog will not tug, keep insisting and do not give up. Interaction of any kind is good. I.e. step on or chasing toy counts BUT DO NOT give any more treats. End your session with the tugging.
If your dog readily tugs, play for a few seconds, stop, ask for a sit and spin and give a treat, then tug again.
Again ask for a sit and spin. Give your dog a treat from the bowl, and tug again. End the session tugging.
Repeat this drill a few times throughout the day.
If your dog is a tug lover, do just the opposite of the above. Use HIGH value treats and lower value toys.

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

Giving your dog a treat for tugging. totally fine to give treat and play KK after a commanded skill. Avoid giving treats in conjunction with tug. When building a balance, we want our dog focused on the tug and not distracted by the treat.
Giving up trying to get your dog to play/tug once you have given a treat. Letting your dog decide if they will play or not is most likely the biggest reason dogs do not tug.
Your dog doesn’t like to tug. When teaching tug, avoid pushing a toy at or putting a toy in your dog’s mouth. This is often demotivating. Think SQUIRREL. A squirrel will run away from your dog, not jump in your dog’s mouth. Haha.

“Balance is not something you find, it is something you create.” Jana Kingsford

Video Notes: What a fun challenge! 2 food bowls are on the floor with treats. Poe and I tug and then I go to bowl on the ground and give him a treat. This action will actually draw his attention to the bowl more. Thus the extra challenge. We do a skill and then Poe is rewarded with either a treat from the bowl, tug OR a treat from me. Thus, the extra challenge has been great for Poe. Delighted we worked on this.

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Review of skills – Review is always an important part of training.

Get It Game – This month we are reviewing an important foundation still, the Get It Game. We started with a review and built on adding distance, new locations and distractions. We used ALL the means needed to insure the dog runs out, grabs, and immedicably focus and runs back to you. Only when your dog can be successful will you wean off all verbal encouragement. ALWAYS insist your dog grabs and gets back with ANYTHING you toss.

New Locations Drill – We added different levels of distractions to taking our dog out to play and engage. This is one of the most important Drills and one to continue working on throughout your dog’s career. Yes, we will keep using this drill throughout this group, BUT it is a skill to perfect and maintain.

With Me – It is still a skill in the process. Your dog should be going with collar pressure and moving with you. Distractions have been added to test and improve your dog’ understanding of the skill. In March, we will start to Bump Up distractions etc. and start to perfect this skill.

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Let’s use the skills and drills learned this module in a training session.

Engaging Your Dog: Strategies for Success

Watch for Inactivity: Be observant—if your dog starts to lose interest or looks away, that’s your cue to initiate a game.
Immediate Engagement: As soon as you notice inactivity, start the game right away to create a strong association between looking at you and fun.
Creating Habits: Consistently use skills and drills learned in this class in different environments (home, park, training buildings, shows, etc.), so your dog learns to generalize the behavior.
Gradual Increase Focus Duration: Start by rewarding small increments of attention, gradually increasing the time they need to stay focused on you before rewarding.
Be Patient: Changes in behavior can take time. Monitor your dog’s responses and adjust your strategy as needed.
Keep Sessions Short: Especially at the beginning, keep games short and energetic to maintain their interest.

Here is YOUR CHALLENGE!

Go to a New Location, with low distraction such as an empty quiet park or parking lot.
Before getting your dog out of his crate, load yourself with high value treats and toy/s your dog LOVES.
When going to your dog’s crate, jazz him up a bit with “you ready to go have fun” or “let’s go play” etc.
Practice your Focus Out Crate and Leash On/Off. It is important to practice these skills in all opportunities to build the “focus habit.”
While playing KK or TUG, move a short distant, 10-15 feet from your crate.
Then spend time playing the different KrazyKookie Games OR TUG.
Practice 2-3 Leash O/O (remember the bend is the cue NOT actually taking the leash off).
Next play TUG or KK back to your crating area.
Once back to your crating area, do your Lease On/Off and put your dog back into his crate.
Make your notes and then take your dog out of the crate again, doing Leash O/O followed by 1 minute of With Me training. Work going away and then back to your crate.
Last Leash O/O repetition and your dog back in his crate.

HOW DID YOUR DOG do with your monthly skill challenge?