K9 Focus – Unleash the Focus – Week 4

Make into 2 tabs … one explanation and the other training

A CONSEQUENCE is an important part of a “BALANCED” training program.

It can be something as simple as withholding rewards.  The type of Consequences used will relate and depend on the dog’s temperament and Level of training.

Let’s talk about consequences.  They are something your dog does not like or wants to avoid in the future .  The important part is that a consequence will make an unwanted behavior LESS LIKELY to occur again.  THIS DOES NOT HAVE TO BE SOMETHING HARSH.  In FACT, it can be the REMOVAL of something your dog loves (withholding treats)  or the ADDITION of something (putting dog in crate).  BUT it is something that your dog wants to avoid in the future.  “TO THE DOG” is t

he key phrase.  Don’t think like a human, you have to think like a dog and what he likes or dislikes.

Do I use the same consequence on every dog?   The answer quite simply is NO. Every dog’s temperament and learning level are different.  The consequence used is always dependent on the individual dog and the Level of training.  When a consequence is applied, it is important how you apply it and how your dog responds. That is, I add a negative marker when my dog is wrong.  The marker is gives, consequence applied and then my dog is given another opportunity to try again and EARN his reward.

The Levels of Consequences or corrections are dependent on your dog’s Level of Training that was introduced in January Week 1.

A dog in the Level 1 of a skill is learning.  This dog, while still needing to give effort, will be lured, shaped, or helped until ready to move to Level 2 training.  Remember the less time you are at Level 1 the better.

Next, a dog at Level 2 of a skill knows the skill and it is time for that dog  to start to accept the responsibility of doing this skill WITHOUT extra cues, commands, or help of any kind like luring.  Consequences for a dog at this level will air on easier approach, opposed to a dog approaching the beginning of Level 3 or proofing stage which might need a firmer consequence.

At the end is a dog in Level 3 of the learning process.  This dog is expected to give effort while being correct in their response regardless of the environment or situation.  If a trainer has gone through all the Levels correctly, a dog in this level of training will not need many consequences BUT if wrong or lacking effort a consistent consequence should be used.

Keep in mind that all the Levels of Consequences is dependent on the individual dog’s temperament.  Unfair consequences can become detrimental or ones inappropriate for your dog can diminish Desire and Confidence.

Over the years, I have found several consequences that I have found very useful. I find that  an appropriately used consequence teaches my dog to give me more effort.   When adding a consequence, it is applied once a dog understands a skill (Level 2) and/or is not giving effort.  Usually, I will include a “negative” marker word, that lets my dog know his effort is not good enough, and that his chance for a reward has ended.  While using a consequence, I am not angry, nor do I yell.  Often you will see me laugh and joke.  This is a great way to keep my dog’s attitude and desire to please high, yet I am able to mark incorrect responses.

Fun and useful consequences: The following are the consequences I find useful and fun.  Use these OR come up with your own!  Some I will even use at the end of Level 1 training BUT will be dependent on the dog and the situation.

• Knock Knock – Tap on head. When your dog looks back at you and maintains focus for a few seconds, praise, and reward.
• Push Away – Push your dog away from you while verbally teasing and moving away from your dog. Condition the PUSH AWAY with a return to you for a tug or KK game.
• Knee bumps – When your dog is NOT paying attention and is sitting next to you, bump him with your knee.
• Withdraw Reward – While delivering a treat to your dog, if he moves or leans forward, quickly withdraw your treat hand. Once your dog has settled back into position that’s when you will begin to deliver the treat again. This is great when rewarding stationary positions.
• U-Missed It – When your dog is not looking or looks away, unexpectedly say “get it” to a toy/treat in your hand. When your dog looks back tease your dog with the treat/toy by playing up the fact you have the treat/toy, and your dog has missed out.
• Air cookie – Pretend to drop/spit a toy/treat. Help your dog look for it. The catch is YOU pretend to find the toy/treat first. Play up the fact that you found the toy/treat first and he will NOT get the toy/treat.
• Put Em Up – Mark the unwanted behavior and send your dog to a bed or crate. This is great if you have another dog to take out and play with or train.

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

• Adding anger or frustration to a consequence. Notice that in most of the following demonstration videos, I am laughing and making fun of the situation or my dog. Keep sessions and consequences upbeat.
• Always using the same consequence or one that is not working with a dog. Mix up what games or consequences you use when training. This will keep training fresh and fun for your dog and you! Also, I you are doing the same consequence over and over and you are still not getting results, either the consequence is not appropriate for your dog OR your dog does not now the skill!
• Not following a consequence with a repeat of a skill and opportunity for the dog to be correct and earn reward. That is, once you have applied a consequence, repeat the incorrect skills so your dog can show you he can be correct and knows HOW TO respond.

Knock Knock

• Here I am introducing Karrde to the Knock Knock consequence.
• Once he has learned this, it will be used ONLY when he is looking away from me.
• I am saying “knock knock” in this video to let the viewers know when and what I am doing. The verbal will not be used in the future.
• Karrde really liked this and just in this short session, I found his focus and effort increasing, and he was learning not to look away.

Withdraw Reward

• This is a great consequence anytime I am delivering a treat to my dog.
• If my dog moves or leans toward the reward, I quickly withdraw the reward.
• I use this consequence mostly for stationary positions, sits, downs, tables, the end of contacts, etc.

Put Em Up

• Next, Karrde is working on a contact behavior. I do not like his effort, so he gets put up, i.e. sent to his “box” which is a bed. I then take Riker out and Karrde gets to watch. When I call Karrde out again, he is MUCH more willing to give more effort with his contact criteria.
• Following, Karrde and I are working on doodling and line-ups. During the session, I give a drop which Karrde does NOT do. He is sent to his bed as a consequence for lack of effort. Riker gets to train a bit, and then Karrde gets another chance where he gives a lot more effort.
• Jealousy is a great motivator. :>)
• This consequence can be used anytime and anywhere. If I do not have an extra dog to train, I will still send my dog to a bed or crate. Later, I will give my dog another chance.

Push Away

• This consequence is great to exaggerate a problem or lack of focus.
• Riker and I are working on getting into heel position.
• When he doesn’t get into proper position, I push him away and tease him.
• This can be used anytime my dog is close to me. Heeling, line ups, start line stays, finishes, pivots, etc.

U-Missed It

• Sly was paying attention, but the nice thing about these games is there is no harm to the dog’s attitude if I play a game and they do not get the reward. In fact, if you watch Sly on the second repetition, he is actually focusing MORE on me.
• After my dog misses an opportunity for reward, I always repeat the situation/skill to give my dog a second chance to be correct and earn the reward.
• Watch Sly’s return after getting the treat on the second repetition. The spin back towards me. Hahaha. Perfect. Fast and tight. That is my end goal anytime my dog jumps up for a treat OR runs out and gets a treat.

Air Cookie

• Sly is helping me demonstrate this consequence. When I pretend to toss a treat, I make a big deal out of what Sly just missed. Sly does NOT get the treat. I wave my “empty” hand like there is something awesome in it. I tease and taunt him with the imaginary cookie. Then we repeat the situation/skill, giving Sly the opportunity to earn the reward.
• When leaving my dog for any skill, my dog’s eyes should be drilling a hole in my back. If at any time his attention wanes, I will break into a game. Even if I don’t have a treat in my hand, I can still toss an “Air Cookie” to have a consequence.
• Lastly, note how Sly stays engaged with me even after he gets the reward. I do not have to work to keep this engagement, rather I use games, etc. to keep his enthusiasm high.
• Air cookies can be used anytime I need to add a consequence, but I do not have a treat in my mouth or hand. So, I was not prepared. :>0

Knee Bump

• In this clip, I am proofing Rip’s focus while sitting at heel position. My criteria for tossing something are that my dog is permitted to look at the tossed object, but then must look back to me. In the video, Rip continues to look at the toy past the glimpse I permit. The use of the Knee Bump and some persistence on my part helps to teach Rip that I expect the same response from him regardless of the environment or distraction.
• When Rip gives me effort, he is rewarded either with treats or tug. Reminder “effort is not always perfection, but with effort I can get perfection.”
• Only when he is in an active, focused state will I leave him. Focus from Rip earns him a reward.

KrazyKookie is a great game to use INSTEAD of just handing your dog a treat.  The treat will become more rewarding, and your dog will stay ENGAGED with you for a longer period of time.  The extra engagement helps to build focus!

GOAL- To continue to build desire to engage and implement a variety of ways to reward and keep training FUN as well as to have an alternative way to keep your dog engaged and interacting with you.    NOTE:  while this is a great way to engage while my dog is not tugging, I ALWAYS continue to work on and build a dog that is eager to tug.  

KK games Reminders:

• Move your treat hand slowly so your dog can CATCH the treat.   Let him think he is doing all the work.   
• As your dog learns the game, keep your hand going at a speed that your dog can easily follow.  This will give your dog confidence and help the desire to chase.
• Use treats that are of high value to your dog and something he can eat quickly.
• Keep your dog engaged before and after the game.  Create the HABIT of staying engaged and focusing on you.

Once your dog has been introduced to the KK game, its time to add on.

YOUR ASSIGNMENT

• Review – Repeats – Once your dog understands the game, start
  to have treats in both hands.  When your dog chases and catches a treat in one hand, immediately pick up the game with a treat in your opposite hand.  Your dog, then chases the second treat as you are getting a third treat in your free hand, etc.
• Review- Speedy – When your dog LOVES the game, move your treat hand faster and more erratically.  Keep it fun for your dog to chase and catch the treat.
• NEW – Chase Me/Chase Me – Play KK with your dog, when your dog catches the treat hand, run away from your dog.  When he catches you, kick into another KrazyKookie game.  Your dog catches the treat in your hand, run off and play another the KK game again.  This game builds desire in focusing and running to catch you. 

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

• Waiting for your dog when running away.   Keep it fun and insist your dog hurry to catch up to you.  Use encouraging words OR add a consequence such as U-Missed IT.
• Stopping the treat hand and giving the dog the treat.  This game is all about YOUR DOG doing the work.   Instead, slow your treat hand so your dog can “catch” the treat hand. 
• Your dog doesn’t like treats or eats slowly.   Make sure your dog is hungry.  Teach your dog how to eat quickly and use small soft treats when training.

The 2 Toy Game is a wonderful way to teach your dog to run out to a toy, grab it, and bring it back to you quickly.  This game is very important for a dog that does play retrieve games, but does not bring the toy back to the handler.  The Get It Game is a great foundation for this game which teaches the HABIT to run out, grab, and run back.

GOAL – To teach your dog to run out to toy, quickly grab it, and RUN back to you.  This game is very important for a dog that resists coming back or chooses to stop and play with the toy.  

2 Toy Game Reminder:

• Use toys that are easy to handle and ones that have equal value or are similar.
• Always start  a new game with the toss closer to you, 5 feet or so.
• It is ok if your dog drops the tossed toy. If he does, play with the toy you are holding as you move and pick up the toy he dropped.
• When ready, have your dog release the toy he is tugging, and repeat the game tossing a toy.
• Bringing back the tossed toy will come with time, be patent.
• If your dog does bring back the tossed toy, praise and encourage him to deliver the toy to your hand.  ALWAYS spend time playing with your dog when he comes to you!  Doing so will build the DESIRE to RUN to you.
• Stop the game while your dog is still eager to play.  Always keep him wanting more!

YOUR ASSIGNMENT

• Keep one toy (the best or favorite toy) and throw the other.  Use toys that are easy to handle and if possible similar in value.
• While holding your dog’s collar, toss one toy a short distance from you (5 feet), tell your dog to “Get It.”
• As your dog is picking up the tossed toy, slowly back away from him while you call, encourage and hit or drag the toy you have on the ground.
•  Use any encouragement needed to get your dog to hurry back and continue to excite with verbal praise.  Once the HABIT of grabbing and running back to you is established, reduce and eliminate excessive verbal etc. 
• If he drops the tossed toy.  NO BIGGY.  Play with the toy you are holding as you walk over while playing and pick up the toy your dog dropped.  Bringing back the tossed toy will come with time.
• When ready, have your dog release the toy he is tugging, and repeat the game tossing a toy.
• If your dog does bring back the tossed toy, praise and encourage him to deliver the toy to your hand and PLAY.  Anytime your dog COMES to you, ALWAYS spend time engaging with hi.  This will build DESIRE to always RUN to you.
• Stop the game while your dog is still eager to play.  Always keep him wanting more!

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

• Not being exciting enough.  Once your dog picks up the tossed toy, be excited and make it worth getting back to you quickly.  Slap the toy you are holding on the ground as you are telling him to get it.
• Standing still.  Backing away slowly from your dog helps to DRAW him toward you.
• Only carrying one toy when training.  Be proactive and ready.  While your dog is learning to pick up and get back to you with a toy, it is important to always have a backup toy.  This will ensure you can reinforce the HABIT of grabbing and coming back.
• Walking toward your dog as he is coming back to you.  This is terribly demotivating to your dog.  If your dog is running/moving toward you, resist trying to meet him halfway.  Let your dog come all the way back to you.

Sly is at the end of the video and is demonstrating how to do the game. He has been doing this game since he was a young puppy, but to this day still LOVES to play the 2 toy game.

In the first section, we are working in a low distraction area and Riker is learning the 2 Toy Game.  We have already been working on tugging and this is the next step once my dog LOVES the tugging game. When playing the game, I use two toys of equal value, one toy to throw and the other to encourage back to me.  Before I toss a toy, I slap it on the ground to get Riker’s attention on it and build excitement.  All is fun and happy and we end while he is still wanting to play more.

In the next clip, Riker and I have moved to a new location to train and build distance.  Again, I will slap one toy to get his attention on the toy that will be tossed.  Once the toy is tossed, I will encourage Riker to run and get the toy.  He is always encouraged to grab and run back to me quickly.  The jump up with the toy is the next step.  I want my dog PUSHING the toy towards me or delivering to my hand to invite me to engage and tug more with him. I pushed this session a bit too much and he disengages from me at the end.  This is a learning opportunity for Riker.  Games stop if you disengage!  Engagement earns fun!

LEASH ON/OFF – Build that HABIT!

This is a great DEFAULT BEHAVIOR.  Just think, any time you bend over to put on or take off your dog’s leash, your dog looks at your face.  This is  a great way to reconnect with your dog when in the ring and having to take off your leash.  NO MORE LOOSING FOCUS.

The act of “bending over“ to put on/off the leash is the CUE for your dog to look at your face.  Make sure you are using the same type of leash you will be using in the ring.  I.e., a clip on a leash, one that slips over his head, etc.

GOAL – To add a consequence while you put on or take off the leash.  This will continue to build the “HABIT” and to shift the responsibility of FOCUS to your dog in all environments and situations such as going for walks, training, or going into a ring.

Leash O/O Adding a Consequence Reminder:

• Use large visible treat placed in your mouth and make sure that your dog can easily see the treat.  Remember we will wean off visible treats and or pointing toy our face.
• Starting to BE OVER will become the nonverbal cue.  
• Use random placement rewards.  That is sometimes reward as you start to bend over.  Sometimes as you reach toward the collar.  Other times as you clip on leash or pretend to. Finally as you stand back up right.
• NOTE: If you are handing your dog a treat, take the treat from your face down to the dog.  This action will help teach your dog to focus on your face.   If your dog breaks eye contact to watch the cookie being delivered, no worries!   The treat is being delivered along the imaginary line between your dog and your face. 
• It is not necessary to put the leash on or take it off.  BENDING OVER is the cue to focus for your dog to learn.
• Only after my dog offers to look at my face with the leash on/off, will you add a consequence for failure to give effort.
•  When adding a consequence, always repeat the skill after a consequence to give your dog an opportunity to be correct and earn reward. 
• Consequence I use, if my dog does not look at my face as I bend over, I use a gentle tap under your dog’s chin with the hand reaching for the snap/collar.
• Praise your dog when he refocuses on your face, BUT he doesn’t get any treats.  Repeat the sequence several times by bending, rewarding, stand up straight and repeat the sequence.
• The bending is the cue for focus, there are NO verbal commands associated with this skill.
• Make sure you practice with your dog in various positions as well as on your right/left side or while standing in front of you.

YOUR ASSIGNMENT

• Grab your dog, leash and treats.  Have your dog in random position to you.  Right or left side etc.
• When my dog is consistently offering to look at your face, add a consequence for failure to to Focus on you as you start to bend.
• If your dog does not look at your face as you are bending over, use a gentle tap under your dog’s chin with the hand taking the snap/collar.
•  When adding a consequence, always repeat the skill after a consequence to give your dog an opportunity to be correct and earn reward. 
• Praise your dog when he refocuses on your face, BUT he doesn’t get any treats.
• Repeat the sequence several times by bending, rewarding, stand up straight and repeat the sequence.  Randomly reward when starting to bend, reaching/taking collar, or starting to straighten up.
• The bending is the cue for focus, there are NO verbal commands associated with this skill.

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

• Weaning off visible treat too quickly.  When weaning off visible treats, bend over and wait for your dog to respond.  Big reward when he offers the correct response.  Sometimes it takes a bit for the dog to “think” about what he is to do.
• Giving a verbal command.  This skill has a great cue, bending over to take off or put on the leash.   While conditioning might take some time, in the long run it is a great skill to have in your toolbox.

K9 Focus – Unleash the Focus 1 – Week 4

• Take into consideration, the Level of training your dog is currently.
• ALWAYS think of building DESIRE before working on perfection!
• Post Questions or 1-3 minute of VIDEO on the FaceBook group.

Below are training session ideas for the week.  Make your training plan, write it down, and after make notes after of successes and results.  

TRAINING SKILLS THIS WEEK

KrazyKookie

• Review – Repeats – Once your dog understands the game, start to have treats in both hands.  When your dog chases and catches a treat in one hand, immediately pick up the game with a treat in your opposite hand.  Your dog, then chases the second treat as you are getting a third treat in your free hand, etc.
• Review- Speedy – When your dog LOVES the game, move your treat hand faster and more erratically.  Keep it fun for your dog to chase and catch the treat.
• NEW – Chase Me/Chase Me – Play KK with your dog, when your dog catches the treat hand, run away from your dog.  When he catches you, kick into another KrazyKookie game.  Your dog catches the treat in your hand, run off and play another the KK game again.  This game builds desire in focusing and running to catch you. 

TUG

• Keep one toy (the best or favorite toy) and throw the other.  Use toys that are easy to handle and if possible similar in value.
• While holding your dog’s collar, toss one toy a short distance from you (5 feet), tell your dog to “Get It.”
• As your dog is picking up the tossed toy, slowly back away from him while you call, encourage and hit or drag the toy you have on the ground.
•  Use any encouragement needed to get your dog to hurry back and continue to excite with verbal praise.  Once the HABIT of grabbing and running back to you is established, reduce and eliminate excessive verbal etc. 
• If he drops the tossed toy.  NO BIGGY.  Play with the toy you are holding as you walk over while playing and pick up the toy your dog dropped.  Bringing back the tossed toy will come with time.
• When ready, have your dog release the toy he is tugging, and repeat the game tossing a toy.
• If your dog does bring back the tossed toy, praise and encourage him to deliver the toy to your hand and PLAY.  Anytime your dog COMES to you, ALWAYS spend time engaging with hi.  This will build DESIRE to always RUN to you.
• Stop the game while your dog is still eager to play.  Always keep him wanting more!

Leash ON/OFF

• Grab your dog, leash and treats.  Have your dog in random position to you.  Right or left side etc.
• When my dog is consistently offering to look at your face, add a consequence for failure to to Focus on you as you start to bend.
• If your dog does not look at your face as you are bending over, use a gentle tap under your dog’s chin with the hand taking the snap/collar.
•  When adding a consequence, always repeat the skill after a consequence to give your dog an opportunity to be correct and earn reward. 
• Praise your dog when he refocuses on your face, BUT he doesn’t get any treats.
• Repeat the sequence several times by bending, rewarding, stand up straight and repeat the sequence.  Randomly reward when starting to bend, reaching/taking collar, or starting to straighten up.
• The bending is the cue for focus, there are NO verbal commands associated with this skill.

REMINDER – When you start or finish any training, ALWAYS play and engage back to your dog’s crate and practice the Leash O/O a few times more times before ending the session and putting my dog back into his crate.