K9 Focus – Unleash the Focus – Week 1

The Journey Begins

This class is all about teaching all the games and drills that I use to get awesome FOCUS. 

The first thing I look for is my dog to WANT to be with me and excited about training.  This is DESIRE and where my dog is looking forward to doing whatever I have planned anytime and in any environment and location.    

A dog that WANTS to be with me, ultimately stays focused regardless of the environment AND in the long run is no longer “treat/toy” dependent.   In this DIY class we are going to teach our dog to LOVE to train/show as well as build the FOCUS HABIT!

REMINDER – make a HABIT of FOCUS!

Levels of Training. Teaching Shifting responsibility Perfecting & Proofing

There are different Levels of Training.  These levels take your dog from teaching, to weaning off visible rewards or lures, and finally to proofing and perfecting.  Understanding these levels, appropriate to your dog’s knowledge of skills, will make your training easier.

When training my dog, I go through 3 Levels.

Level 1. Teaching.  First, I teach my dog the skill and build my dog’s desire to do that skill.   While at this level, I use rewards that my dog LOVES.   This Level is all about learning and BUILDING DESIRE. (See the next TAB “DESIRE” for more on my favorite subject.) This is also where I start looking at the speed in which my dog does the skill. Speed often times demonstrates my dog’s DESIRE and whether I need to stay at this level OR can move on in training. For example, when teaching my dog to sit, I will use a lure or my hands to get my dog into a sit. Many times my dog’s anticipation of the skill is a cue for me to move on in Level 2.

Level 2. Shifting Responsibility.  At this Level, I start to shift responsibility of performing the skill to my dog.  This means that my dog is responsible for performing the skill on the FIRST command/signal with NO luring and hidden rewards.  In addition, my dog is able to do the skill close to my final criteria.  Games are added to enhance focus and desire, and consequences are introduced for any lack of effort.  This does not mean that the skill is perfect and that my dog will not make a mistake.  It simply means that my dog has to take responsibility for doing the skill and/or trying to do the skill.  During this Level, the rewards become less obvious, consequences are added, and games are spontaneous and fun. Using the Sit example, in this stage of training, I will stop using a lure and no rewards will be in my hands. At this stage of the SIT skill, if I give a command and my dog does not immediately sit, I will step in and abort the response OR using a leash, give a pop/pull up to hurry the dog into the position. My dog responding fast to my command is a cue for me to move on to Level 3.

Level 3. Proofing and Perfecting.  Finally, I proof and perfect the skill.  This final step continues to build or maintain my dog’s DESIRE to do the skill, improves my dog’s precision, and tests his understanding of my criteria especially in new locations and during varying situations.  While at this level, I continue to add spontaneous games to reward and maintain desire. In the sit example, I will move on to training more in new and various locations and or add distractions such as toys on the ground.

What IF in a training session my dog doesn’t respond or do a skill properly?  

First, I ask myself the following questions:

Do I need to help my dog with this skill?  If yes, then Level 1 “teaching” was not complete.  This means that my dog really doesn’t understand the skill nor how to do the skill to my criteria.  BUT BEWARE of staying at this level too long.  If you stay at this Level too long, your “teaching” level will become how your dog thinks the skill is to be performed.   That is how you are teaching the skill (using a lure, showing your dog the food/toy, etc.) quickly becomes the “habit” and in your dog’s mind, the finished skill.

Does my dog really know the skill?  If I feel that my dog knows this skill, then I need to ask myself if I am helping my dog too much, i.e. saying “hurry” on the outside post or a figure 8, or giving more than one command for a contact behavior, or saying “watch me” when my dog looks away, etc.  If I feel my dog knows a skill, then I need to add consequences so that my dog will know he is wrong.  This is Level 2 training.

Is my dog performing the skill to my criteria 80% of the time?   When my dog is performing the skill to my criteria 80% of the time, I start to polish and proof the skill.  This Level 3, teaches my dog how to successfully do the skill under all circumstances and in all environments.  Beware that too much precision and not enough spontaneous games or rewards, diminishes my dog’s desire!

Here are a few examples:

• Heeling is a very skill intense exercise.  Anytime I see a hole while heeling, say my dog lags on an about turn, I review the levels of training.  Then, I remove the piece (i.e. the about turn) from my heel training, and work on what level applies to that piece.  Only once the skill, the about turn, is perfected, will I add it back into my heel training.
• Contact performance is a skill that is very hard to maintain through the career of the dog.  If at any time my dog does not perform the bottom contact behavior to my criteria, I review the levels of training.  I will break down the skill going back to the foundations that were used to teach my dog and build the behavior I desire using these steps.

NOTE:  One of the areas where trainers seem to fail, is being able to  shift responsibility to their dogs.   OR going to Level 2.   When their dog falters, they tend to “help” their dog, such as giving extra commands or bringing back lures, instead of applying consequences.  Oftentimes, this leads to what I call a “helpless” dog.  This is a dog that is used to getting help and stops responding to commands, because the dog knows their handler will help.  As a result, the dog no longer knows how to respond without help.    :<(

Learning to be aware of what level of training your dog is at on a particular skill will enable you to respond appropriately regardless of any mistakes your dog makes while training.During training, your dog may not always be as precise as you would like.  At these times, it is important to recognize the cause of his imperfection.  Is he trying hard to do what you want, or is he actually “hardly trying?”

Lack of effort should never be rewarded.  In most instances, true effort, even if precision is lacking, should be rewarded.  Learn to recognize, reinforce, and reward “effort”.  This will give your dog the confidence and the desire to continue working with you as your training sessions become more complex and difficult.

GOAL is FUN + FOCUS + PROOFING = SUCCESS

Building desire.  This is a topic near and dear to my heart.  :>)  

When I begin to teach a skill to my dog (LEVEL 1), the first thing I want to do is build DESIRE in my dog to LOVE and WANT to do the skill.  That is, my dog can’t wait to do the skill and will do it QUICKLY, HAPPILY and with PASSION!  In the long run, I know that with desire built into all skills, my dog’s FOCUS on me will override any possible distraction.

The building DESIRE first approach also applies to improving a skill that has been previously taught.  This would be when the skill is in Level 2 or Level 3 training.   Building DESIRE at these levels will take more diligence and persistence on the trainer’s part.

When you are building desire on a skill, you want to use something your dog loves!  In other words, you will pair what you want your dog to love, the skill, with something he already loves, toys and treats.   We want to use the HIGHEST VALUE to build desire. In order to teach your dog true “DESIRE”, building should be done with every skill, game, transition, etc. you will need in the future for showing OR training. Desire building should be done with each skill BEFORE sequencing skills and then randomly added once you are sequencing skills.

Example:  Sly loves toys/tug.  So, to build desire for focus, I used his favorite toy, it is either hidden on me or in my hand.  Initially, I start a skill and immediately break and play. NOTE: spend time playing and engaging BEFORE going back to training.   When I see that my dog is “gaga” about the skill and willingly offering or even anticipating that skill, will I then add more duration.  This can take a few sessions to multiple training sessions or even weeks.   I SPEND loads of time building DESIRE!

GOAL: to be able to build DESIRE on all skills which will inadvertently improve a dog’s FOCUS.   In other words, IF your dog is dying to do the skill, his focus will automatically increase.  

When working to build DESIRE and “I WANNA” in your dog, keep these points in mind:

• ALWAYS teach games and build DESIRE out of training sessions.  Once your dog LOVES the games, pick easy skills to add the games too.  This way the DESIRE will transfer to the skill.
• Begin your session when your dog “wants to participate.”  Have your dog in a crate or a different room for an hour or so before training.  Make sure your dog is bored and has nothing to do, so he will be looking forward to being with you.
• Reward your dog’s EFFORT using a very HIGH reward, something your dog LOVES.
• Present the reward very close to the start of or the completion of the skill or activity.
• Practice for short periods of time.  Always quit when your dog wants more!
• ONLY when you have the DESIRE do you GRADUALLY increase the Distance OR Duration OR Distraction.
• KIS – Keep it simple.  Make it easy for your dog to be successful and earn rewards.
• Training is 24/7, so be aware of what your dog does in everyday life.
• Pre-plan and pick which and how many games or treats you are going to use and when you plan to use them.  That includes not only the time you are “officially” training your dog, but also at mealtime, at the park, etc.
• Keep a notebook of the games, the type of rewards, and how much you used.  You will not want to continually use the same types (or amounts) of treats, or games over and over.  Variety is the spice of life so keep training FUN and Unpredictable.
•  The BALANCE between precision and desire is ever changing. That is, if you see your dog’s desire diminish, it means you are NOT playing enough games! 
• When training, always choose DESIRE over precision.  A dog that is having fun will continue to give effort!
• Remember : Too much repetition or sequencing without enough fun, is a sure way to de-motivate and bore your dog!

YOUR ASSIGNMENT

• Work on the building DESIRE concept using a simple skill such as a sit, 3-5 times this week.
• Give your dog a sit command and immediately break into a game of tug or KK.
• If your dog knows a sit, and is slow, abort the repetition by walking into your dog and laughing with a “that isn’t fast enough”. After repeat your sit command again and see if your dog is faster on the sit. If so, BREAK and PLAY and party your success.
• If not, time to analyze the foundation training of the sit to see if there are any holes in your training.
• Understanding what and how to build DESIRE will elevate your training and your dog’s focus. It is a must for any and all future training so make this the top priority.

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

• A trainer assumes a dog has enough desire built for a reward or skill.  Continue to monitor and build desire for all rewards and skills throughout your dog’s career.
• Not maintaining desire.  Once skills have been put into a sequence, randomly reward each skill in the sequence on a regular basis.  Break off to play unexpectedly to keep different sections of the sequence fun.
• TOO MUCH sequencing makes a dog a dull boy!   Training should be all about how much fun you can build into each and every training session.

Make a conscious effort to maintain a “BALANCE” in every aspect of your training.  YES!  In Every Aspect!  Play more games in all skills or sequences then you feel you need!

Video Notes: In this video, I am building DESIRE in Karrde’s sit while balancing with precision.

Two (2) things to remember:

1. My sit command criteria is that my dog remains in a sit until given another command or released.
2. My dog must remain in an “active” state, meaning ready to go at a drop of a hat.

Actually, this is a great training session.  It shows building desire for the sit and also maintaining focus. See how treats are delivered in a fast manner, and then either a slow delivery of treats or a “jump to hand”.  The slow delivery reinforces the sit, while the jump to hand teaches Karrde to stay in an “active” state.

At marker 0.42, Karrde looks away and I add the U-Missed It game as a consequence.  I drive him crazy teasing and laughing at him.  On the next repetition, I ask for and he gives a great sit and he is rewarded with a “jump to hand”.   

At marker 0.55, Karrde does a “Jump to Hand” and the treat falls to the ground.  NOTE how I stay on him to HURRY and get back to me.  THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT HABIT TO CREATE, getting something off the floor and hurry back to me!

Again at marker 1.02, Karrde looks away and I start a “Jump to Hand” BUT since he looked away, I tease him and do not let him have the treat.  On the following repetitions, I reward him more often with several treats OR a “Jump to Hand”.   As training progresses, I will build in duration on Karrde’s sits but I will not accept lack of focus or an inactive state.  :>)

DESIRE always comes first.  It’s hard to proof or challenge if the dog’s DESIRE isn’t there. 

The “KrazyKookie” Game is a personal favorite game of mine.  I use this game to build desire in dogs that do not play with toys.  It makes the dog work for the treat so there are no “freebies.”  As a result, a dog HAS to give more effort to “WIN” the reward.  This is a FUN game for both the handler and their dog.

GOAL: To give you additional ways to play and engage with your dog. This builds your dog’s FOCUS while having Fun and remaining engaged in a sustained manner.

Playing the “KK” Game with your dog will encourage your dog to return to you quickly and continue to maintain focus and desire to remain engaged.
Keeping your dog engaged is always better than just handing him a treat.  
It is never too soon or too late to begin teaching your dog how to stay engaged.  Regardless of your dog’s age or experience, the benefits he will reap from the introduction to this concept are many.

KK Reminders:

• Move your treat hand slowly so your dog can CATCH the treat.   Let him think he is doing all the work.   
• As your dog learns the game, keep your hand going at a speed that your dog can easily follow.  This will give your dog confidence and help the desire to chase.
• Use treats that are of high value to your dog and something he can eat quickly.
• Keep your dog engaged before and after the game.  Create the HABIT of staying engaged and focusing on you.

YOUR ASSIGNMENT

• Add KK to all of your training sessions this week. Make sure you “LET your dog catch” your hand hand rather than stopping and giving treat to dog.
• We will be adding on to this game this month!
• Reminder – start to slowly move your treat hand at your dog’s head level. LET your dog CATCH your treat hand rather than stopping and giving the treat to your dog. Remember, your dog does all the work. See all the BEGINING steps (Level 1) to teaching the KK game on this class page.

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

• Moving the treat hand too quickly when first teaching the game.  As your dog learns the game, keep your hand going at a speed that your dog can easily follow it.  This will give your dog confidence and help the desire to chase.  Only speed up the treat hand once your dog is engaged and loves the game.
• Stopping the treat hand and giving the dog the treat.  This game is all about YOUR DOG doing the work.   Instead, slow your treat hand so your dog can “catch” the treat hand.
• Not using appropriate treats.  Use treats that are of high value to your dog and something he can eat quickly.

Video Notes: Poe and I are reviewing his KrazyKookie game.  While playing, I move the reward hand just fast enough for him to chase and CATCH the treat in my hand.  When he gets to my treat hand, I let him get the treat BUT will still slowly move my hand away.  This ensures that he will continue to move toward as well as to learn to drive to rewards.  I.e. I will not deliver or hand to him.

The first step to teaching  your dog to tug is to
let your dog “PICK A TOY”.

Different dogs like different types of toys.  When beginning to teach your dog to play/engage with a toy, it is often good to have many different types of toys that your dog will love and interact with. Not sure which toys to use with your dog?  The following game will help you narrow down the list and find the perfect types of toys to use when training and playing with your dog.

GOAL: To find out what type of toys your dog likes and is interested in engaging. Knowing his preferences will enable you to gauge which are higher value.  Over time we will want to build value in all types of toys.

Pick a Toy Reminders:

• Use a non-distracting area and use all the toys you have or are thinking about using to teach or build desire on your tug.
  
• Make is fun and exciting for your dog to eagerly investigate the toys.
• Notice all the types of toys he investigates, picks up, etc.  Are they hard, soft, or fuzzy?
• Rejoice if he brings you a toy but resist the urge to take the toy from your dog BUT do praise and tell him how clever he is and let him prance around and show off.
• Keep the search session very short and end before your dog gets bored.
• Go back in the room and separate your dog’s favorite toys.  Never give these special toys to your dog or leave them out for him to play with by himself.  These are toys that you share and enjoy together.
• All toys should be put up so that your dog will not have access to them.  Keep interacting with toys only for special time with you!

YOUR ASSIGNMENT

• TUG – this week is our first Tug Game. Pick A Toy game.
• Do this game ONCE to see toys your dog has a tendency to love.
• Even if your dog has a great tug, do this drill as it shows the higher value toys to your dog and it is FUN!
• These will be the toys to use ONLY when teaching and building DESIRE for games and skill, Level 1.

Video Notes:  Poe really enjoyed this drill.  He was very excited about the pile and wasn’t quite sure what to do with all the toys.  Haha.  He did finally Pick a Toy and instead of trying to tug, he got to just have fun with it.  When it was time to end, I took it away without giving a command etc.

K9 Focus – Unleash the Focus 1 – Week 1

Before planning your training session:

• Take into consideration, the Level your dog is currently performing at in training.  Simplify if needed.
• Post  Questions or 1-3 minute of VIDEO on the FaceBook group.
• In order for you and others to get the MOST out this class, it is important that everyone participate in some way with either questions, comments and or videos.
• GOALS for the month, January, will be about reviewing or learning foundation games and ways to reward your dog while building desire. It is the beginning of building FOCUS!

Below are training session ideas for the week.  Make your training plan, write it down, and after make notes after of successes and results.  All the skills this week and be done in your home or yard.  :>)

TRAINING SKILLS THIS WEEK

Building DESIRE

• Work on the building DESIRE concept using a simple skill such as a sit, 3-5 times this week.
• Give your dog a sit command and immediately break into a game of tug or KK.
• If your dog knows a sit, and is slow, abort the repetition by walking into your dog and laughing with a “that isn’t fast enough”. After repeat your sit command again and see if your dog is faster on the sit. If so, BREAK and PLAY and party your success.
  If not, time to analyze the foundation training of the sit to see if there are any holes in your training.
• Understanding what and how to build DESIRE will elevate your training and your dog’s focus. It is a must for any and all future training so make this the top priority.

Krazy Kookie

• Add KK to all of your training sessions this week. Make sure you “LET your dog catch” your hand hand rather than stopping and giving treat to dog.
• We will be adding on to this game this month!
• Reminder – start to slowly move your treat hand at your dog’s head level. LET your dog CATCH your treat hand rather than stopping and giving the treat to your dog. Remember, your dog does all the work. See all the BEGINING steps (Level 1) to teaching the KK game on this class page.

TUG – Pick A Toy

• Do this game ONCE to see toys your dog has a tendency to love.
• Even if your dog has a great tug, do this drill as it shows the higher value toys to your dog and it is FUN!
• These will be the toys to use ONLY when teaching and building DESIRE for games and skill, Level 1.

In order for you and others to get the MOST out this class, it is important that everyone participate in some way with questions, comments and or videos.