PROOFING FB GROUP
Proofing, or distraction training, builds your dog’s confidence, focus, and attention on you, so that your dog can perform a skill any place, anytime, no matter what is happening.
What things impact your dog’s ability to work around distractions?
- How far your dog is from the distraction.
- The distance you are from your dog (the closer you are to your dog, the more confidence your dog will have).
- The value of the distraction – high value reinforcements (A’s) used as distractions are more difficult for your dog to be right than low value reinforcements (C’s) used as distractions.
- Whether the distraction is moving or stationary.
- Whether your dog is moving or stationary.
- Your dog’s basic temperament – some dogs worry about things in the environment, some dogs are visually sensitive, some dogs have noise sensitivities, etc.
When you are proofing, watch for signs of stress. While some stress is NOT a bad thing, your goal is to build confidence, not make your dog worry to the extent he can no longer think.
Some of the signs of stress are:
- Ears laid back
- Panting
- Yawning
- Mouth tight
- Low body posture
- Eyes wide or glassy
Here are a few examples of “How To Simplify” if your dog starts to stress when proofing.
- If you are working away from your dog (such as doing a recall), decrease the distance between you and your dog. So if you were standing 20’ away when your dog was unsuccessful, decrease that distance to 10’ but keep the distraction in the same location.
- Increase the distance between your dog’s position or path and the location of the distraction. So if the distraction was 5’ away from your dog or your dog’s path, move the distraction so that it is 8’ away from your dog or your dog’s path.
- If your dog is unsuccessful twice in a row, do something to simplify BUT keep the distraction present. Never be afraid to modify and simplify BUT do keep it challenging.
COMMON ERRORS – Handler Make
- Proofing that is too advanced for the level of your dog’s training. When teaching a skill, proofing or distractions are kept light or to a minimum. Increase the level only as your dog gains confidence with the skill.
- Not adding a consequence. If the dog is not giving effort, a consequence should be given. Then give your dog a chance to get the skill correct and reward!
- When the dog is unsuccessful, the handler over simplifies the challenge. Simplify the least needed to give your dog a chance to be correct. Too easy does not teach, too hard creates too much worry.
On the first repetition, Riker had a problem going through the spacing of the chairs. While I moved the chairs to make the challenge easier for him, I did not move them so much that is was no longer a challenge. Once Riker did three (3) successful attempts, the chairs were moved closer again. Success earned a huge reward along with a lot of praise and petting. I feel it is important for my dogs to learn to love praise and petting alone since many times in training, I do not always give treats or tug. Hahaha. Riker was so proud of himself.
Questions? Ask DebbyQ
Training in NEW LOCATIONS is an important step before showing your dog, regardless of the dog venue (Agility, Nosework, Rally, Obedience, etc.). After all, what is the show ring? It is a NEW location each and every time you walk into the ring, regardless of the ring you walk into.
Dogs react to the show environment in positive or negative ways. Some dogs amp up, while others become worried and distracted. Likewise, handlers also react to a “real” show in different ways. Knowing your dog, and training him to be able to perform in any condition or location, is key to your team’s future success, for your confidence in your training, and to your dog.
A new environment adds an additional element to any skill or exercise, and actually creates a new experience for you and your dog. Train in new places so often that arriving and training at new locations becomes commonplace for both you and your dog.
As you make the commitment to train in new locations at least a couple of times each week, decrease your dog’s “warm up” time by beginning your training session immediately upon arriving at any given location. Your dog should be ready to “show” in a heartbeat! That means NO ACCLIMATION to the new environment. He should be taught to give you his full attention when he gets out of a crate and responds to your commands and cues at the drop of a hat! Likewise, you should be focused on the skills and/or exercises in a heartbeat and be ready to go into the show ring.
PROOFING VARIABLES TO CONSIDER
Each new location has a variety of variables and conditions that have to be assessed before getting your dog out to train. The more new locations you go to, and the greater the variety of conditions at the new locations, the greater your dog’s confidence will be to performing any skill in any situation.
The following are some ideas that can help you on your road to success. You can find additional ideas in the book “Success is in the Proofing” book. The book covers the how to’s and why’s of proofing for all levels from Novice to Utility.
When you begin to train in new locations with your dog, start your training with something easy. We want our dogs to be successful, yet we want to challenge our dogs.
Example: I will take my dog out of the van/crate and immediately start engaging the minute he comes out. No WARM-UP. Once my dog can successfully and confidently engage with me, I will start adding simple skills such as the Transition Games or a bit of duration in focus before breaking into another game.
Example of a training session:
- Go to a new location. Some ideas could be: open parking area (easier), near a store front (harder), between trash cans, this will be more constricting and more of a challenge, near people, etc.
- Get any food and toys on you BEFORE taking your dog out of his crate/van and place out your video camera.
- When taking your dog out of the crate, immediately engage with him. You can tug or do games your dog enjoys.
- While engaging, move to where you plan on training.
- Once you get to where you will train, ask your dog to do a simple skill such as, Sit Stay training, tricks, or a game your dog does well.
- Your dog must meet your criteria for any training or games you do.
- Once the skill is complete, immediately break into playing again.
- While playing, move again to another area.
- Repeat, play, skill, play.
- When finished with the session, engage your dog all the way back to his crate/van.
- With time and training, your dog will be confident in all new locations. That includes the show ring!
NEW PLACES and DIFFERENT CONDITIONS
- Parks. In the beginning look for quiet places with few distractions.
- Storefronts. Many hardware stores and pet shops allow dogs to go inside.
- Plant Nursery. Love taking my dog in the spring time.
- Schools. After classes or when not in session.
These are but a few ideas. Think about unusual or fun ways to test your dog’s ability in NEW locations.
COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make
- Thinking a location they use for training gives them an advantage when showing in the same building. Anytime a show comes into a training building, nerves charge the air and new dogs disrupt the area.
- Not going to new locations because there is no equipment. You do not need equipment to work on engagement, focus and foundation skills. If you have light weight jumps, take them to use or practice start line stays, use cones for heeling or to practice handling, find a fence to do go-outs, or a children’s playground. There are LOADS of opportunities, you just need to look. :>)
- The first section is the slab of my house. A new location for Sly to work on the “Cookie Toss” Game and Line-Ups.
- Next is the area between the training building and the garden. Riker has never trained in this location. We use this opportunity to train transferring from one toy to another.
- Riker and I are playing and training at a school that is down the road from me. We work on getting in and out of the van with attention and then into heeling with focus.
- The next section, is the same school just a different area. Riker and I are working on approaching an entry. This was great training for him. When incorrect, I used a push and the U-Missed It Game.
- Lastly, is a parking lot near the 249 freeway. Riker and I stopped for training. We worked on the Leash On/Off, Instant On, and Focus in a settle. Another great learning session for Riker.
Questions? Ask DebbyQ
TAKE THE TIME TO PROOF! Besides going to new locations with your dog, be sure to proof all skills and exercises that you will use when you show. Proofing will ensure that your dog understands how to respond to cues.
Begin to proof as soon as your dog responds to your command, or cue 80% of the time (the 80% rule). Start proofing in an easy manner, like a new location. Only increase the level of the distraction when your dog is confidently performing a skill to your criteria.
When using distractions to proof, always start with the distraction further away. If your dog is successful, reward and tell him that he is brilliant. On the next repetition, move a few feet closer to the distraction. Reward and praise your dog if he is successful. Then move closer to the distraction. If your dog fails, apply a consequence. This could be a U-Missed It Game or a physical correction. The consequence should always be determined by the experience level and temperament of the dog.
COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make
- Beware of making the scenario too easy if your dog is incorrect on a repetition. Oversimplifying and making training too easy will teach your dog not to try or worse will teach him a learned helplessness.
- Starting with difficult proofing. Teach your dog how to be successful with proofing by beginning with something that will challenge yet is doable for your dog. Teach him HOW to WIN the proofing game.
- Slow and intentional proofing will teach your dog how to rise to any occasion or challenge. :>)
Many times people ask me “how can I duplicate the ring scenario without having a ring or a Show-N-Go?” You don’t need any of those. Instead, you can train in tight locations.
Once my dog is ready, I set up proofing to simulate the “feel” of the show ring. I look for areas that will give the feeling of “tight” or “noisy” locations.
When you try some of the following, pretend you are going into a ring. Maintain focus and attention on your dog. As you are going into, under, or through, train your transitions, heeling, line-ups, handling, or playing with your dog.
While looking at the below photos, “think” of what training you could do!
| Between cars in parking lot.
Ideas for training – Line-Ups, heeling, recalls, RSG games, go-outs, retrieves, dog walking backwards.
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Business building with ramp.
Signals or moving stand, retrieves or recalls, handling using trees instead of cones.
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| Building with poles under cover.
Figure 8 Heeling, articles, go outs between pols to wall, handling using poles instead of cones.
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Grocery store frontage.
Heeling, line-ups, figure 8, sit or start line stays.
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| Business building with columns.
Heeling, figure 8, handling around columns, RSG games, multi-level articles.
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Restaurant with gate opening.
Entering a ring opening, pivots, cone work around the trash can.
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TAKE THE TIME TO PROOF! In addition to frequenting new locations,
proofing using distractions such as new people, other animals or sounds is important.
As soon as your dog responds correctly to your command or cue 80% of the time, begin to proof his understanding of that skill or exercise. Take your time to correctly proof and make sure your dog understands exactly how you expect him to respond to any cue or command regardless of the circumstances.
When using distractions to proof, always start with the distraction farther away. If your dog is successful, reward and tell him that he is brilliant. On the next repetition, move a few feet closer to the distraction. Reward and praise your dog if he is successful. Again move closer to the distraction. If your dog fails, apply a consequence. This could be a “U-Missed It” Game or a physical correction or simply showing him what he should have done. The consequence should always be determined by the experience level and temperament of the dog.
Beware of making the scenario too easy if your dog is incorrect on a repetition. Oversimplifying and making training too easy will teach your dog not to try or worse will teach him a learned helplessness. This applies to giving second or extra commands as well!
Next time you are out training, try doing a skill your dog knows and adding some proofing with one of the following:
DISTRACTION IDEAS
- Dogs around in the area (make sure they are under control and no threat to your dog).
- Squirrels.
- Leaves blowing.
- Trucks or construction equipment.
- Bicyclist or skateboarders.
- People wearing different types of hats (baseball hats, cowboy hats, large brimmed hats).
- A person washing their car.
- Kids playing outside.
- A person pushing a stroller.
- Slow and intentional proofing will teach your dog how to rise to any occasion or challenge. :>)
Riker is first in this video. He ignores most of the distraction and wins loads of treats and tug sessions. Riker, understanding the game, even starts offering behaviors, knowing focus and effort WIN.
Karrde, on the other hand, had more difficulty in this location. The video shows how I upped the rewards for any effort. I tried to simplify the session for him by reducing the duration he had to focus to earn rewards. This location will be on our list of new locations again in the future. I want Karrde to be successful with his focus.