Author: debby quigley

Heeling Tips & Tricks #18

18 rea
Heeling video 18
 
REA Progression
 
Move To Ground

 

REA reduce to flat ground & starting left circle

  • Review where you left off on your last session before replacing box with paper.
  • Replace your reduced box with a piece of paper on the ground.  This is a marker more for you than your dog.
  • Continue to have treats in the left hand, palm up.  This is how you would hold your hand/arm when heeling.
  • Restart your dog and as your dog gets onto paper, and reward your dog a few times for getting on the paper.
  • Once ready and your dog is anticipating going to your side, move hand next to your side and step forward with the foot furthest from your dog.
  • With your dog next to you, slowly start to move in a tight circle rewarding and praising your dog in heel.
  • While weaning off the box, take your time and do not reduce or eliminate box too quickly.
  • Make sure your dog is OFFERING rear end movement before progressing.

PLEASE add YOUR comments Below!

😉🐶🐶🐶 *****Next video – Left Pivots – Handling and Teaching

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Heeling Tips & Tricks #17

17 heel progress hand up
Heeling video 17
 
Heeling Progression
 
Wean Off/Raise Hand

 
Weaning off treat hand close to your dog – This process will take time but it is worth your patience and needed to get great heeling.

  • Once your dog is moving with his head up focus for 20+ steps and in a number of new low distracting locations, it’s time to start to move your hand up approximately one foot.
  • Repeat the steps you have already done with your hand in the “new” position.  That is, review foundations and then do 1 repetition with hand low and then raise your hand one foot.
  • Work only in a straight line OR if space is limited, in a very large circle with your dog on the outside of the circle with NO SITS.
  • Once your dog is successful, confident and loads of DESIRE built raise your treat hand up another foot in heel position and repeat Steps above.
  • DO NOT progress if your dog is not focused and happy.
  • Your last hand position will be your left hand in heel and bent so your hand is at your shoulder.
  • Take your time with each step and build a solid foundation.  When problems arise down the road, it will be these foundations that you will fall back on.
  • Adding additional skills before desire and duration are built on straight lines. Building foundations takes time and rewards. Be patient!

PLEASE add YOUR comments Below!

😉🐶🐶🐶 *****Next video – REA progression

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Give IT Back!

give It can be so irritating when your dog grabs something he should not have.  Often it becomes a struggle to get the object back.  Wouldn’t it be great not to have to fight and chase your dog when he picks up something he shouldn’t have! Just teach your dog to “Give it Back!”.

When teaching your dog to give you an object, have him on a leash and let him drag it so he can not run away.

Important reminders:

  • Do not chase, corner, or grab your dog.
  • During the teaching phase, use objects that are of low value to your dog and use high value treats for your dog. Make sure your dog is more excited about the treats that the object, even if you have to use tuna, liver, or steak!
  • Give your dog several treats or even a handful of treats in exchange for the object.
  • Choose a cue word such as “out,” “give,” or “drop it.” Use this word each time you ask your dog to give up an object and be sure to reward him for letting go of it.

Steps for teaching your dog to relinquish objects on command:

  • Use an object of low value to your dog. Drop the object and see if your dog will pick it up. Walk toward your dog and say your cue word. As you say your cure word, toss a few high value treats towards him and walk past.  Make sure to maintain a distance of at least six feet from your dog as you approach and then continue to walk past. Do not try to take the object from your dog. Practice this several times each day with different types of objects until your dog will leave the object and go eat the treats.
  • Repeat the above and this time wait to give you cue word until you are a little closer than before. Now, say your cue word and toss several treats toward your dog. Repeat this exercise gradually getting closer and closer to your dog each time until you can say your cue work and then drop the treats right next to your dog. Remember to use a variety of objects and high value treats. Do not try to take any of the objects from your dog.
  • Once your dog is doing well dropping the object and going to the treats, toss your dog another low value object. This time walk up to your dog. Do not use your cue work until you are standing next to him. Say your cue word, and drop several or a handful of high value treats to the ground. As he is eating the treats, gently bend down and pick up the object. Practice this exercises a number of times with objects of different values for your dog.
  • Put treats in your pocket before you begin this exercise. Toss your dog a toy or object of low value. Make sure that he will pick up the object. Walk up to your dog and when you are next to him, give him your cue word. When your dog releases the object, remove the treats from your pocket, and drop them next to your dog. As your dog is eating the treats, pick up the object. Practice this exercises using an assortment of items with varied value to your dog.
  • Again put the treats in your pocket. Toss your dog a toy or another item of low value. Walk up to your dog and when you are next to him, give him your cue word. When he releases the object, give him several treats and pick up the object. After he eats the treats, return the object to him. Repeat your cue word and feed, him several treats after he releases the object. Again, pick up the object and return it to him. Practice only two exchanges in the beginning. If your dog willingly gives up the object, increase the number of exchanges until your dog willing gives up the object a half a dozen times.
  • Once your dog willingly gives up all types of objects begin to vary the types of treats you use. Sometimes use ordinary dog food and sometimes use really good treats such as steak. Over time, randomly reward your dog with treats for letting go of the object.

With time and training your dog will be HAPPY to “GIVE IT BACK”.

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Heeling Tips & Tricks #16

16 right pivot intro
Heeling video 16
 
Handling cues RIGHT Pivot
 
Footwork & Intro Teaching

 
PIVOTS are the foundation of ALL turns in heeling whether you are doing Rally or Obedience. I have found that most teams have difficulty performing turns because the handler’s cues are incorrect or inconsistent. These difficulties in turns show up big time when I ask my students for a pivot. When my students do pivots correctly, their turns improve about 90%.
Right Pivot consists of 3 steps. Always start with your foot OPPOSITE to the direction of the turn. I.e., if you are going to pivot to the RIGHT, start with your left foot.

Your pivot should always start and end in the same place.  A small dot on the floor will help you to make sure that your pivot remains in place.

  • The weight shift is the first cue your dog receives so it is VERY important.
  • The second cue is my eyes/head turning to “LOOK” where we are going on my second step.
  • The third cue is the first movement/step I take.

Building desire – When I begin to teach the RIGHT PIVOT, the first thing I want to do is build a DESIRE for dog to LOVE the skill. Same when wanting to improve a skill. When you are building desire, you want to use something the dog loves. In other words, pair what you want them to love with something they already love.

NOTE: If you are wanting to improving turns, first work on your pivots and add loads of games to all steps in the pivot to build DESIRE. In other words, do NOT just reward the end of the pivot or the sit.

Teaching the Right Pivot

  • Have your dog at your left side and place your hand low on the leash close to the snap hook with the palm of your hand flat and your hand on the backside of the leash. This enables you to use a forward reining action.
  • Small dog? Use a solid leash. This is a leash that is attached to a stick or dowel rod. Using a solid lead will aid in the forward pressure.
  • As you think about the weight shift to your right foot, apply reining pressure forward on your leash. Your dog should start movement with the weight shift/leash pressure and BEFORE your left foot leaves the ground!
  • Turn your left foot to make an angled T-step with your right foot. This step will turn your shoulders to the right.
  • NOTE: Make sure that your dog is always watching you at all times when making the turn.
  • Reward your dog by releasing up to a treat or toy to build desire.
  • When training the Right Pivot, reward randomly on the different steps in the turn. I.e., move your first foot and reward, before completing the turn reward, and so on.
  • Only add a sit to the pivot once your dog understands to move with your weight shift and turn while keeping his head up and focused on you.
  • Remember to break and play with your dog during each “step” when teaching ANG training. This will build desire and keep your dog’s head up.

😉🐶🐶🐶 *****Next video – heeling progression – starting to raise left hand 

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Heeling Tips & Tricks #15

15 weight shift
Heeling video 15
 
Weight Shift
 
A Turning Secret!

 
What is the “Weight Shift” – This is the first cue to your dog letting him know you are getting ready to turn and in which direction you will be going.   The cue is when you shift your weight to one leg in order to pick up the other prior to the actual turn.  As you shift your weight, it’s slightly shifts your position to either the right or the left, giving your dog a “cue”.

Teaching Weight Shift

When my dog will readily move with the pressure, I pair leash reining with the Weight Shift.  This teaches my dog the “pre-cue” for all pivots and turns.

  • Start with your dog next to you on your left side (Not in a sit) and  on a short leash with no slack in it.
  • The leash runs from the dog’s collar, up my palm with my thumb holding the leash.
  • For any movement to the left, I place my left hand on the leash with my knuckles forward and shift my weight to my left leg.
  • For any movement to the right, I place my left hand on the leash, but this time my palm is forward, and my weight will shift to my right leg.
  • Little dog? I use a solid leash for small dogs.  This is a dowel rod that has a leash attached to it at both ends.  The handler uses it with the same directions as regular reining on a leash.
  • The only motion is the weight shift, your feet DO NOT move.

😉🐶🐶🐶 *****Next video – handling cues pivots foot work right pivot build desire  

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Heeling Tips & Tricks #14

heeling 14
 
Heeling video 14
 
REA progression – starting to reduce box

 
 
REAR AWARENESS – HINDQUARTER ROTATION: REDUCE THE SIZE OF THE TARGET 

  • Review foundations and then reduce height of box by ½.
  • Once your dog is OVER ROTATING his rear end, it is time to gradually reduce the height and size of the box.
  • If using a book, rip off half of the pages making the book half as tall.
  • Continue to train the REA until your dog is consistent with the skill.

😉🐶🐶🐶 *****Next video – Adding Auto Sits – Halts

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Heeling Tips & Tricks #13

13 heel progression
 
Heeling video 13 –
 
Progression Heeling 20+ Steps
 

 

Heeling progress – Straight-line Heeling – Increasing the number of steps.  Random rewarding 20 + steps

  • Hold your right hand on 3-6 small treats in your right hand and your RIGHT hip about waist high.
  • Play with your dog and fall into heeling. Doing so will help build DESIRE and FUN into heel work.
  • After play, start moving forward at slow than a normal pace.
  • Deliver reinforcement by varying how many steps you take BEFORE you give a treat.
  • Randomly break and play. That is sometimes release on the first step, sometimes on the 3rd, sometimes on the 10th, and so on.  MAKE IT RANDOM and keep the dog guessing.
  • Watch delivery of the reinforcement. Remember – placement of rewards can help OR hurt your training

Remember

  • Resist starting heeling with your dog on a sit.
  • When you move a treat to your left hand, your dog gets it, there is no luring or holding the treat by your side as you take steps.
  • Make sure your dog is keeping his head up as he eats the treat, this is extremely If this is still an issue, go back to the information provided on Week 1 “Rapid eating” for how to teach your dog to eat a treat with his head up.
  • Energize and play OFTEN with your dog during training so that your dog maintains his attitude and desire to want to train.
  • Keep sessions short, fun, and full of energy and play.

😉🐶🐶🐶 *****Next video – REA Progression

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Use of Rewards

Reinforcement can include treats, praise, petting, or a favorite toy or game.

Since most dogs are food motivated, treats can work especially well for training. Next to food and toys, dogs love attention! Instead of, or in addition to using treats and toys during your next training session, reward your dog by providing praise, affection, or applause.  Yes, clapping for your dog.  He will love it!

When your dog performs a skill you have been trying to perfect, tell him “Good Boy!” in a happy, upbeat tone and applaud his efforts. You both will find training much more enjoyable with the extra affection added to your training sessions.

The do’s of using food~

  • A treat should be irresistible to your dog. Experiment a bit to see which treats work best.
  • Treats should be a very small, soft pieces of food, so that your dog will be able to immediately eat the treat and look to you for more. Avoid treats that your dog has to chew or that breaks apart into pieces on the floor.
  • Keep a variety of treats handy so your dog will stay interested in what is coming next. Place all types of tasty treats in a bag that will become a smorgasbord for your dog.
  • Each time you use a food reward, pair it with a verbal praise. Say something like, “Yes!” or “Good” in a positive, upbeat voice.

When to give treats~

When your dog is learning a new behavior, reward him every time he does the desired behavior. Once your dog has learned the skill, switch to random reinforcement. Gradually reduce the number of times he receives a treat for doing the skill. Reward your dog’s best efforts.

At first, reward him with the treat four out of every five times when he does the behavior. As he perfects the skill, reward him three out of five times, then two out of five times, and so on. Use a random reinforcement schedule. Your dog will soon learn that if he keeps responding, eventually he’ll get what he wants.

By understanding the use of reinforcement, you’ll see that you are not forever bound to carry a pocketful of treats. Your dog will soon be working for you because he wants to please you, and knows that occasionally, he’ll get a treat or a game of tug too.

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Please leave comments or email me with future article ideas at Ask DebbyQ. 

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Heeling Tips & Tricks #12

heeling 12
 
Heeling video 12 –
 
Intro Leash Reining

 
 
Leash Reining Intro

NOTE: Leash Pressure is good to condition BEFORE adding reining to pivots or turns.

Leash Reining is a great tool to use for turns and pivots. I rein my dog to teach and refine position.

  • Pressure n the taught leash is applied from your hand and wrist, NOT your arm.   Taught leash, pressure is back OR forward.
  • Have your dog next to you in heel position.  Sit is NOT recommended.
  • Apply a constant light pressure in the direction you want your dog to go.
  • The pressure is light and constant until your dog moves.
  • Praise and reward your dog for any movement due to the leash pressure.
  • Example: Apply pressure back on the leash until my dog moves backward.
  • Take frequent play breaks to relax your dog and continue to build desire.

Problems?

  • Reining the leash up.  Use pressure with your leash lateral to your dog’s topline when standing.  The correct reining will get the best results.
  • Visible treats. Often treats in your hand will distract your dog and prevent the motion desired.

😉🐶🐶🐶 *****Next video – Progression Heeling 20+ steps

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Heeling Tips & Tricks #11

heeling 11
 
Heeling video 11 –
Adding Tuck Sits to Heeling

 
 
 

Adding Halts to Heeling
Halts are not added to heeling until the dog understands how to do a tuck sit, understands the halt cue footwork, AND the dog understands how to heel and maintain proper alignment aligned with the handler’s body.
All skills are taught and polished independently before integrating them.

  • If your dog understands the TUCK SIT add to short straight line heeling i.e. a few steps 2-4.
  • Heel ONLY 2-4 steps.
  • As your left heel is getting ready to hit the ground (1/2 step)
  • Say SIT
  • Your dog should quickly SIT!
  • Make sure your dog keeps his head up as he is moving forward and into the sit.
  • When working on the tuck sit, you will be taking a few steps forward in a straight line and the dog should sit on your verbal and body cue and NOT AFTER you stop.
  • The goal is that the dog sits BEFORE you actually stop.
  • Release and play with your dog between each sit

😉🐶🐶🐶 *****Next video – Leash Reining

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