I am often asked “how do I get ready for a National event?”

A few months before the event, my training sessions consist of 3’s.

1 skill, review foundation – example-pick up dumbbell up close, drop/down games, etc.
1 skill, build desire – example-adding games to the Broad Jump like the toss back as dog lands.
1 skill, proof – i.e. adding distraction, training new locations, etc.

This would be a training session. Pick 3 exercises or skills and do 3’s. Reminder there are many SKILLS in all exercises. It is important to be able to break out all “skills” to build desire, precision, and problem solve issues.

Of course games are always spontaneously added into all of the training session.
Desire above all and KEEP TRAINING FUN!

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(or proofing) builds your dog’s confidence, focus, and attention on you so that your dog can perform a skill any place, anytime, no matter what is happening.

I introduce and teach my dog a NEW CONCEPT, such as distraction/proofing, using non-traditional skills.  In this case, proofing/distraction work will be done first when my dogs are doing fun tricks/games.

What things impact your dog’s ability to work around distractions?

• How far your dog is from the distraction.
• The distance you are from your dog.  The closer you are to your dog, the more confidence your dog will have.
• The value of the distraction.  High value reinforcements (A’s) used as distractions are more difficult for your dog to be right than low value reinforcements (C’s) used as distractions.
• Whether the distraction is moving or stationary.
• Whether your dog is moving or stationary.
• Your dog’s basic temperament.  Some dogs worry about things in the environment; some dogs are very visually sensitive, some dogs have noise sensitivities, etc.

Watch your dog for signs of stress when working with distractions.  Your goal is to build confidence, yet not make your dog worry.

Some of the signs of stress are:

• Ears laid back
• Panting
• Yawning
• Mouth tight
• Low body posture
• Eyes wide or glassy
• Tail tucked

If your dog is unsuccessful two to three times in a row, simplify what you are doing, BUT keep the distraction present.

Examples:  If you are working away from your dog (such as doing a recall), and your dog was unsuccessful two or three times, decrease the distance between you and your dog.  So, if you were standing 20 feet away when your dog was unsuccessful, shorten that distance to 10 feet, but keep the distraction in the same location.

Another way is to increase the distance between your dog’s position or path, and the location of the distraction.  So, if the distraction was 5 feet away from your dog or your dog’s path, move the distraction so that it is 8 feet away from your dog or your dog’s path.

COMMON ERRORS – Handlers Make

• Making it too easy. If your dog is right all of the time, you are not getting the most out of proofing training.   Your being wrong is your opportunity to show him how to be correct.
• Making it too hard. When training, look to the 80% rule.  That is, I want my dog to be correct 80% of the time.
• Correcting a dog that does not understand the skill. During proofing, I will repeat the proofing challenge 2-3 times.  If my dog is always wrong, he doesn’t understand the skill.
• Simplifying too much when the dog is wrong.  Once my dog shows me that my proofing challenge is too much, I will gradually simplify until a proper proofing level is found.
•  Once a dog knows a skill, luring can longer be used!

It is not bad for your dog to be wrong.  Your dog being wrong is your opportunity to teach your dog how to be correct.

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When showing, is your dog leaving you to sniff or go visit?

Is your dog stressed in new locations when training or anytime you show?

Does your dog not perform in the ring as he does while training?

In other words, do you often say, “he never does that in training!”  

Many problems or a combination of issues can contribute to dogs leaving their handlers, become unable to perform in the ring, or show differently than they train.  Problems such as stress in the ring, lack of confidence, inconsistent handling, etc. can create a dog that has issues when showing or even training.

First, Stress in the Show Ring can cause a dog to become unconfident and fearful to the point of leaving their handler.  Every show you attend is a “new” location.  This even applies to a training facility in which you train frequently, because the environment of the show is new and different.  Why?  Different dogs, different people, a new atmosphere, etc. all add to a heightened level of excitement, stress, and “newness” to your dog.

• Solution– One way to help reduce show ring stress is to train in “new” locations on a regular basis.  This doesn’t mean other training facilities.  This means going to a new location that you have never been before or rarely visit.  New locations do not need ring gates, rally signs, or jumps and contacts to be effective.  Examples of new locations include store fronts (Wal-Mart, Lowe’s, etc.), outside dog park fences, business centers, schools on the weekends, etc.  It is the “new” that gets the dog.  In fact, train in new locations more than you train at home or in your training facility.

Second, Stress of inconsistency.  What does your criteria of a skill really mean?  Are you inconsistent in asking your dog for skills to be performed the same way, anytime, or anywhere?  For example, is your dog’s “sit” always performed the same?  Does your dog sit the same way, with the same speed, every time, even if he is at home, in the ring, out running and playing with other dogs, or chasing a squirrel, etc.?  If the sit is expected to occur in 3 seconds, then the sit should always be 3 seconds, regardless.

• Solution– In order for your dog to perform a command/skill in the ring and under stress, that skill/command should be performed to the same criteria every time no matter where or when.  Also, that skill should be tested and proofed before ever asking your dog to perform at a show.

Third, Stress of emotions.  When going into the ring, you, the handler, are nervous.  Your dog picks up on your nervousness and feels that the ring must be a bad place.  Make sure the ring is “fun” for your dog so that he can perform in a confident, relaxed manner.  How?  You, the trainer, have to be able to control your emotions when in the ring.

• Solution– 2 ways – First, the handler should practice mental toughness training (see the MindSet Tab). Second, is the confidence you have in what your dog has been taught.  My question to students is “will you bet me $100 that your dog will perform all the skills needed for the ring if you enter?”  If not, then your dog might need more training and proofing before he is ready to show.

Fourth, Stress of lack of reinforcement.  Have you gone to the next step in training by randomizing your reinforcement?  It is important to wean off giving your dog a reward EVERY TIME he does a skill properly.  Once your dog knows a skill, pick your dog’s best efforts, and reinforce only those worth the reward.  For example, if you ask your dog to sit five times, pick the best 2-3 sits to reward.  Too often trainers get in the “habit” of rewarding their dog for every repetition.  The result, then becomes, your dog expecting a reward every time and will quickly stop working if not rewarded.  In the ring, your dog must be able to chain a number of skills together to create the performance.

• Solution– Randomizing your rewards will help accomplish this goal.  Once your dog understands a skill, pick the best efforts to reward.  Rewards, while still used in training, need to be given for best efforts.

Give more treats less often!  OR instead of giving a treat for every skill, pick the best efforts and give a bunch of treats.

Finally, Stress of poor rapport.  The one thing that becomes clear when you go into the ring, is the RELATIONSHIP that you and your dog share.  Good rapport and steady, consistent leadership will be clear whether you win or qualify.  With a great relationship, you and your dog will look like a team.

• Solution– It is easy and once you have established the habit of training 24/7, your dog will find the time with you reinforcing and fun.
• How do you build a great relationship?  It is establishing good structure and boundaries.  This includes your everyday life with your dog.
• Does he work for affection?  Treats?  To go outside, or to play ball?  The more your dog works for what he gets, the more “in tune” to you he will be.
• How many times during your daily walks have you trained your dog?  It is easy to incorporate training into everyday life.  Ask your dog to do a skill, or two before getting his meal.  YES, change the skills you use on a regular basis.  When out for a walk, ask your dog to do a trick, or come to front, or walk with you without sniffing.  When playing ball, ask him for a down or a sit while he is running to pick up the ball, or coming back to you.

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Many times, I hear, “my dog works great as long as I have treats” or “my dog knows when I have treats and will not work with the same enthusiasm.”

One of my SECRETS, and a skill that is a must for all trainers, is the ability to play one on one with your dog.  Play in this context means, interacting with your dog WITHOUT any toys or treats present.

The one-on-one connection and fun are one of the best ways to reward your dog.  Examples can be anything from petting and praising your dog, or running around laughing, or using transition games that your dog loves, or clapping your hands and praising your dog, or getting down on the floor and rolling around with your dog.  Hahahaha.  Actually, I do get on the ground to play with my puppies, not so much with my older dogs, BUT I do often interact with my older dogs, so they are used to having fun with me without toys or treats present.  Use one or any combination.  Have FUN with your dog!

The key to having a dog that will work for you, and not the reward, is as simple as playing with your dog!

Follow US on YouTube for more training videos.

Check out Poe’s YouTube Channel for more training videos!